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=====Injection Pump Removal=====
====on the 1987 300D (OM603)====
===by ""777funk""===

I did a search before I did this job and I didn't see anything on it so I documented mine. This is similar for the 601 and 602 (om601, om 602 and om603 ip removal) but you'll have a few differences with the intake manifolds. Other than that, the IP will still have the same timing degree mark for removal and replacement (15 degrees ATDC).
Here are the steps I used that worked well for me:

**1.** Remove the intake manifold and fuel injection lines. Watch for wires and disconnect the linkage if connected (as in the 603). Use a new gasket when re-installing. Note my cheesy Injection caps made from cut pieces of 3/8" fuel hose and plastic bag pieces.

**2.** Remove Fan shroud and fan. Someone here had a pictorial on this I think but basically un-clip the two shroud clips at the top and pull the shroud loose then you'll have a small amount of room to get the allen bolt out of the fan to take it all out. I had to make a special "low clearance" allen wrench using my grinder in order to get that thing in there (it's a very small amount of room to work with-hope you have small hands!)

**3.** Remove Vacuum pump (held on by 6 - 10mm bolts). Install timing basket if not there.

**4.** Remove Cruise Control Actuator (4 bolts) to make room for the IP to slide out towards the oil filter canister.

**5.** disconnect anything connected to the IP (linkage, vacuum lines, two electrical connectors).

**6.** Rotate the engine by hand to 10 degrees ATDC (NOTE: you will hope to land at around 15 ATDC but start at 10 so you won't have to back up) and take off the oil fill cap. The reason the fill cap comes off is because you want to be sure it's the compression stroke and NOT the exhaust stroke (the fuel squirts in on the compression stroke). The cam lobes for #1 will be pointing up in the compression stroke (i.e. no valves held open on the number 1 cylinder).

**7.** Remove the cover bolt on the side of the IP near the bottom (17mm I believe). Look inside and you should see a flat head screwdriver looking blade which is the IP's timing slot that mates up to the IP timing tool locking the IP in place. I used a mirror to be able to see the IP's screwdriver blade looking slot (see picture of the mirror showing the slot).

**SEE PICS and see more TEXT below pics:**

The timing slot blade (looks like a flat screwdriver tip) should be **dead center in the hole** that the lock tool threads into (see picture). If not, rotate the engine by hand SLOWLY until it is (ideal is 15 degrees ATDC but as you can see mine centered at 12 degrees **SEE PHOTO ABOVE**) The goal is you want the IP slot to be centered in the hole. At that point simply insert the locking tool (part number 601-589-05-21-00 around $25). The locking tool's shaft **shouldn't** be turnable when it's mated up with the IP's lock blade since the blade is now in the tools slot.
...NOTE: Link to the MB tool pic above is from GSXR's website.

**8.** Now it's time to remove the IP. Take out the Center bolt __**NOTE it is Left Hand Thread**__ so it turns clockwise to remove! Then take out the 3 - 13mm bolts and it's free. Just pull it out! It's a good thing to have the IP timing adjuster centered (no tension) before taking the IP out. That way it's free to pull out. May not matter but that helped me.

and last... I bought 3 new timing bolts from the dealer at $55! OUCH!!

That's it. Let me know if I forgot anything. All I know is it worked great for me. While I was at it I replaced all the IP seals that were accessible as well as delivery valve o-rings. See my other threads for the problems with that. No real problem once I got the banjo fitting lines to the filter on the right ports! But there is a torque proceedure on this. Someone else has posted a good tutorial on this. Clean the IP VERY well first!.

Here are the part numbers (thanks GSXR Dave) for the IP's seals. I bought mine for around $35:

601-238-07-80 Vacuum pump gasket to block
013-997-81-48 I/P ELR O-ring
001-074-43-80 I/P rear governor gasket
004-997-46-40 I/P bottom cover O-ring
001-074-11-80 I/P side plate gasket
012-997-83-48 I/P to block O-ring
010-997-56-48 I/P vacuum shutoff valve O-ring
009-997-81-48 I/P shutoff lever O-ring
000-091-17-80 lift pump gasket

I used Viton O-rings from forum member JADavis
and here are the copper crush washer part numbers:
004-997-45-40 Copper washers

thanks! and enjoy!

As GSXR said in a post somewhere here... the IP should slide out fairly easilly once everything holding it (wires, fuel hard lines and soft lines, vacuum, and the four Bolts) are disconnected.

It should also slide back in very easily. You should not have to pull it in by the bolts drawing it in. It needs to **easily** slide into the splines of the timing device. If not move it a little and try again.

Also note (both suggested to me by Sixto and GSXR) that it's good to center the IP in it's adjustment range so you can adjust the timing a bit either way if you need to at a later time. I put mine back just like it was when I took it out since I don't trust the needle on my harmonic balancer. It worked just fine. Actually the car seems to be a little peppier. Could be my imagination. But then again the ip has a bunch of new seals so it could truly be a little peppier than it was! Either way, glad to have the job done.

Also... don't mess with the IP's timing. Leave it unless you're REALLY must adjust it. The original Block to IP o-ring will be hard and stretched. It could leak like mine did.

That's why I had to do this in the first place. I'm confident I wouldn't have had the leak if I wouldn't have disturbed the old o-ring. DON'T mess with the timing unless you plan on making an oil leak and doing a 10 hour job like I did! But my IP has all new seals at the common leak points. So I'm glad I did it!

And MAN were the old seals dried out hard and brittle. The side plate gasket had really shrunk. I can see why these 603 IP's leak like they do when they get old. Rubber seals only last so long. I highly recommend changing the seals if you have your ip out. The side plate wouldn't be bad with the IP in I wouldn't think. Pretty doable. Same for the o-rings on the shut-off and stop lever. The back (ELR) and bottom plate seals are another story. But super easy when the IP's out.

[[ Discuss this DIY here.]]

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