Warning:  Before using any product on your car's fabric upholstery, carpet, leather or vinyl, test for color fading (colorfast) by cleaning a small, inconspicuous area.  Do not use the product if it adversely changes your fabric's color or texture.

The interior of this BMW has just been perfectly detailed.  Notice how the leather has a nice, even matte finish.  Professional detailers don't leave a car's interior looking wet and slick.  The interior should look like it just arrived from the factory.

A SYSTEMATIC APPROACH
The interior of your car takes a lot of abuse.  Unlike the inside of your home, which has many times more square footage, the inside of your car gets repeated, concentrated traffic.  Each time you get in your car, you drag in more dirt.  Each time you eat or drink in your car, you add a few more crumbs and spills.  In fact, just sitting in your car, you drop hair, dead skin, makeup and other contaminants.  All of this dirt and junk adds up very fast.

It is not necessary to fully detail the inside of your car each time you wash.  Unless you've been to the beach, out in the mud, or tracking in grass and leaves, you can probably get away with vacuuming every three or four weeks.  Here's what I recommend for most people:

Weekly Interior Cleanup
1. Wipe down all vinyl, leather and plastic surfaces with a damp cloth.  A microfiber towel, such as the Ultimate Detailing Towel, is excellent for this task, as it will leave a lint and dust-free finish. 

2. Pull out your floor mats and shake or brush off the dirt and debris.

3. Pick up trash, that old banana peel you tossed into the back seat, and empty the ash tray.

4. Wipe down your door jambs and door sills with a damp towel.

5. Wipe down your interior glass and your rearview mirror with a damp towel.  Again, a microfiber towel, such as the  Ultimate Detailing Towel, is great for this job.  If your windows are relatively clean, you do not need to use a glass cleaner.

Monthly Interior Detailing
1. Follow all of the steps for the Weekly Interior Cleanup.

2. Vacuum the interior carpet, seats, seat crevices, and console.

3. Clean interior glass with a good glass cleaner or a microfiber towel.

4. Apply vinyl protectant with a UV inhibitor to the dash, console, and tops of door panels (areas with the most sun exposure).  Good choices are Sonus Total Eclipse and 303 Aerospace Protectant.

Quarterly Interior Detailing
1. Follow all of the steps for the Monthly Interior Detailing.

2. Clean and protect all leather and vinyl upholstery.

3. Clean and protect all rubber door, trunk and hood seals.  

VACUUMING
There's no special science to car vacuuming.  You need a good vacuum, a few attachments, and 10 to 15 minutes to get in there and get the job done.

A special car vacuum, such as this Vac N'Blo Portable Vacuum from Metropolitan Vacuum has all of the right attachments for car detailing.  This mini-mite is under 18" long and only 7" in diameter. It comes with a 12 ft. power cord, a shoulder strap, a 6' flexible hose, two 20" extensions, a blower nozzle, Pik-All nozzle, dust brush, crevice tool, inflator adapter and a 4-piece micro cleaning tool kit.

The two most important attachments are the crevice attachment and the dust brush attachment.  Make sure your crevice attachment is plastic, not metal.  A metal attachment or a plastic attachment that's in poor condition may scratch or otherwise damage leather or vinyl upholstery.

Use the crevice tool to reach between and under seats, into tight seams, nooks and crannies, and around seat beads.  Vigorous movement on the carpet helps to bring up sand and grit.

The crevice tool is the best way to get behind the gas pedal, between the seats, and in other tight areas.

Use the round dust brush attachment to vacuum the console, dash and vents.  You can assist with the dusting by using an interior detailing brush ahead of the vacuum to get deep into vents and cracks.

Here are the proper steps for vacuuming:

1. Start your vacuuming job by pulling out the floor mats.  Shake out the mats to remove any loose dirt.  Use a 4" upholstery attachment or the bare hose end to vigorously vacuum the mats.

2. Work on the rear upholstery and carpet.  Push the front seats all the way forward.  Use the crevice tool to vacuum the cracks of the seats and between the seats and carpeted areas.  If the seat  upholstery is fabric, switch to the 4" upholstery attachment and vacuum the rear seat and the deck under the rear window.  Vacuum the rear carpet.  Use the crevice tool to vacuum around the seat tracks and under the front seats.  Use the round dust brush attachment to vacuum the door panels.

3. Push the front seats all the way back to work on the front upholstery.  Use the crevice tool to vacuum the cracks of the seats, between the seats and carpeted areas, and around the gas and brake pedals.  Now switch to the 4" upholstery attachment to vacuum the carpet in the foot wells and the seats (if the seats are fabric).  Use the round dust brush attachment to vacuum the console, vents and door panels.

4. If your headliner is fabric, use the round dust brush attachment to vacuum the headliner.  Be gentle, though, as this material is not as durable as your seat upholstery.

Tip: When vacuuming carpet, use the palm of your free hand to beat the carpet just in front of your vacuum hose or tool.  As you beat the carpet, dirt that is lodged deep into the carpet will come loose for vacuuming.

DASHBOARD & CONSOLE  
We look at the dashboard and console more than any other area of our car's interior; therefore, it makes sense that we should give it some special attention.  The dash and the deck under the rear window also take the brunt of damage from sun exposure.  In order to keep your dash from cracking and fading, regular treatment is necessary.

Caring for the dash and console is really pretty easy.  Simply wipe them down with a damp towel every time you wash your car, and treat them with a vinyl protectant once a month.  To reduce the effects of the sun's UV rays, use 303 Aerospace Protectant or Sonus Total Eclipse which contain strong UV sunscreens.

The easiest way to treat the dash and console is to use a foam applicator pad.  Spray your vinyl protectant on the applicator, not on the dash or console, and wipe it in thoroughly.  This will prevent over spray on your glass and upholstery.  Don't forget to protect the steering wheel, turn signal levers, and the shift boot.  Allow the vinyl protectant to soak in for three to five minutes, then buff the dash and console dry with a clean detailing towel.

If you're doing a complete interior detail, you should also dust and clean out the vents and grill work.  There are a variety of tools that work in vents and grills.  The easiest to use is a vent brush and compressed air.  If you don't have compressed air, you can use the blow cycle on your vacuum.  Simply brush the vents and grills while blowing with air.

If your vents are disgustingly dirty, use a cotton swab or foam swab (electronics part cleaning swabs from Radio Shack) to clean out the dirt.  An interior detailing spray works well on a foam swab to clean and beautify vents and speaker grills.

On consoles with a lot of nooks and crannies, it's best to use an old toothbrush followed by a towel to clean and protect.  This same method works well around buttons and controls on the dash.

DOOR PANELS AND JAMS  
Door panels are often made of several materials, including fabric, vinyl, carpet and leather.  Vinyl can be scrubbed to remove shoe scuffs.  A spot remover such as 303 Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner can be used to easily remove black scuff marks from these areas.  For general, light cleaning of interior vinyl, use Sonus ALL-IN-1.  If the lower part of your door panel is leather, it will be treated a little differently, as discussed in the section on leather detailing.

Thoroughly clean around door handles, pulls and window cranks using a tooth brush and soapy wash water.  Be sure to clean and dry the speaker grills and wells on arm rests, too.  If the door panels have storage pockets, use your sponge or wash mitt to clean in these areas, as they tend to collect a lot of dirt and crud.  Next, use your sponge or wash mitt and soapy water to clean all the way around the door frame and the door sill.  When you're finished, dry the door completely with a clean towel.

If your door panel is leather or vinyl, be sure to treat it with a leather or vinyl protectant.  Fabric door panels can be treated with a fabric protectant to reduce staining and fading.

DETAILING VINYL UPHOLSTERY  
Vinyl is the most durable upholstery, but it is not the easiest to keep clean. Unlike cloth or leather, the surface of vinyl generates static, which attracts dust.  As a result, vinyl can quickly become grimy.  The good news is, vinyl is the easiest upholstery to clean.

Do not use regular household soap and water on your vinyl upholstery.  Detergent will permanently remove the sheen from the vinyl.  Choose a cleaner that's safe on vinyl and plastic.  My favorite interior cleaner is Sonus All-In-1.  It's also great for removing stubborn spots on vinyl, including ink, marker, grease and gum.

Follow these easy steps for the perfect vinyl interior:

1. Spray vinyl with your favorite cleaner.
2. Work the cleaning solution into seams, edges and seat backs using an upholstery scrub brush.  If necessary, use an old toothbrush to get into the small crevices.
3. Rinse the vinyl thoroughly with a bucket of clean water and a terrycloth towel.
4. Dry the upholstery with a clean, dry terrycloth towel.
5. Finally, apply your favorite vinyl dressing to restore the sheen.

A quick word about vinyl dressings: they're not all the same. Choose a dressing that gives you the look you want (flat to shiny). 303 Aerospace Protectant or Sonus Total Eclipse create a satin and matte finish, respectively. There are other products available if you want a glossy finish.  Another thing to consider is protection from the sun.  The 303 and Sonus products offer good ultraviolet light protection. 

DETAILING LEATHER UPHOLSTERY  
There are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to prematurely wear.  The first is dirt and the second is oil from your skin.  The oil from your skin is actually the most damaging to your leather.  This is particularly true if you wear shorts or a tank top, and have recently applied lotion or a sunscreen to your skin.  Take this into consideration when determining your cleaning schedule.

Unlike fabric or vinyl upholstery, leather should be cleaned one section at a time.  This means that once you have applied your cleaner or conditioner to one area, you should fully wipe down that area then proceed to the next, and so on.  Work on an area no larger than 2-3 square feet at a time.

There are many different leather cleaners and conditioners available.  Be sure to select a leather cleaner and conditioner appropriate for your leather upholstery.  Modern leather upholstery is protected with a thin vinyl coating, whereas classic leather interiors are not.  Do not use a product designed for uncoated leather on a coated leather finish, as it may quickly ruin the protective coating.

If you have a dark colored leather interior, I recommend cleaning twice a year.  Light colored leather will need cleaning more often, even as much as every three months, depending on how easily the dirt is revealed.  In between cleaning your leather, use a clean, damp towel to wipe down the surface completely.  This removes the dust and light dirt so it won't have a chance to work into your leather.

For classic and coated leather finishes in new or like-new condition, I recommend Sonus Leather Conditioner, is a modern formula that properly protects both coated and non-coated leather.  Sonus leather Conditioner leaves a natural, non-slip, matte finish.  Coated leather upholstery can be pre-cleaned with Sonus Leather Cleaner.  For leather that is dry, worn or slightly ages, try Autoglym Leather Care Cream and Autoglym Leather Cleaner.

Follow these steps to clean your leather:

1. Apply the leather cleaner of your choice one section at a time and work the solution into a nice lather with a sponge.  If your leather is heavily soiled, use an upholstery (interior detailing) brush.
2. When finished scrubbing, be sure to remove all soap from the surface with a damp towel.
3. Rinse and wipe several times, then dry the leather with a fresh, dry terrycloth towel.

By the way, water will not hurt your leather.  Most leather is actually made (tanned) in water.

After the your car's leather has dried, apply the leather conditioner of your choice.  Choose a leather protectant that gives you the look you want (flat to shiny). 

Just like cleaning, apply leather conditioner one section at a time using a foam wax applicator.  Work the conditioner in thoroughly. Allow the conditioner to soak in for a minute or two, then buff off the excess with a dry terry cloth towel or microfiber towel.  It's important to buff off the excess.  If you allow the excess to stay, your seats will be slippery.  After a few minutes of soak time, your leather has taken in all the moisture it can.  The remainder will simply evaporate, leaving that nasty film on the inside of your windows.

DETAILING FABRIC UPHOLSTERY  
Fabric is the most difficult upholstery to detail.  Unlike vinyl and leather, fabric upholstery easily soils and stains.  You should expect to spend two to three hours detailing a sedan with fabric upholstery, a little less time for a truck or two-seater.

There are two basic methods and product choices to clean fabric:

1. Spray-On/Wipe-Off Cleaner (foaming or non-foaming) - These cleaners penetrate and lift dirt and stains to the surface where you can wipe them away.
2. Shampoo - A sudsy soap solution that requires agitation with a brush or sponge and rinsing.

For quick spot cleaning I recommend the spray-on/wipe-off type of cleaner.  These cleaners are strong, and get deep into the soil or stain to thoroughly clean.  A good example is 303 Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner.  To shampoo your entire interior, a foaming upholstery cleaner, like Wurth Upholstery Cleaner, works best because it will not saturate the upholstery.  Before using any product on your car's fabric upholstery, test for color fading (colorfast) by cleaning a small, inconspicuous area.  Do not use the product if it adversely changes your fabric's color or texture. 

Rinsing is the key to shampooing your car's upholstery.  If you don't rinse, the dirt and soap remain in the upholstery.  Rinse water must be removed with a wet-dry vacuum, extractor or plenty of clean towels.  Use a shop wet-dry vacuum, a coin-op car wash vacuum, or a carpet wet-dry machine rented from your local grocery store.  Make sure you have the vacuum before you get started.  Follow these easy steps:

1. Fill a small bucket with a gallon of warm water.
2. Spray spots and heavily soiled areas with a good spot remover.  I recommend 303 Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner. 
3. If using a non-foaming cleaner, such as 303 Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner to shampoo the interior, mix four to six ounces of the cleaner  in the bucket of warm water.  If using a foaming cleaner like Wurth Upholstery Cleaner, spray the cleaner lightly over the area to be cleaned.
4. Use an upholstery scrub brush and a sponge in a circular motion to agitate the upholstery with the cleaner.  Apply as little water as possible.
5. Wipe away the suds with a sponge or a damp terrycloth towel.  Rinse the sponge frequently.
6. Empty your bucket of soapy water and refill with clean warm water.
7. Rinse your upholstery with clean water by wiping with a damp terrycloth towel.  Rinse the soap from your towel often and wring it out.  Use as little water as possible to rinse thoroughly.
8. Vacuum your upholstery to extract the remaining rinse water.
9. If you're not working on a warm, sunny day, use a hair dryer to complete the drying process.  Be careful not to scorch the fabric by holding the dryer too close.
10. Allow the fabric to dry overnight before using.  If possible, keep your windows open slightly to allow the moisture to escape.

To keep your fabric upholstery looking factory fresh for many years, consider using a fabric protectant.  My favorite is 303 High Tech Fabric Guard.  It blocks the Sun's damaging rays and repels water, oil, grease and dirt.  Use a fabric guard only on new or just-cleaned upholstery.  Your upholstery must be dry.  Simply spray it on (two light coats is better than one) and let it dry. 

SHAMPOOING CARPETS AND MATS
Most automotive carpets are very durable, and will withstand repeated shampooing without signs of damage or wear.  Carpet cleaning is not fast or easy.  You should expect to spend 2-3 hours shampooing the front and rear carpet and mats in a sedan or SUV, a little less time for a truck or two-seater.

This BMW floor mat had a milkshake spilled on it.  The stain sat for three weeks before the owner brought it in for detailing.

When shampooing carpets and mats, use as little water and cleaner as necessary to get the job done.  Use a good upholstery brush to do most of the work.

After cleaning and vacuuming the mat it looks great.  I used the vacuum on the blow cycle to help dry the mat.

Before shampooing, the carpet and floor mats must be thoroughly vacuumed.  To do a complete job, it may be necessary to remove the front seats, which requires the correct size Allen or socket wrench.

Follow these easy steps:

1. Spray spots and heavily soiled areas with a good spot remover.  I recommend 303 Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner. 
2. Mix four to six ounces of 303 Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner or another liquid upholstery cleaner in a bucket with one gallon of warm water.
3. Use an upholstery scrub brush and a sponge in a circular motion to agitate the carpet.
4. Wipe away the suds with a sponge or a damp terrycloth towel.
5. Empty your bucket of soapy water and refill with clean warm water.
6. Rinse your carpet with clean water by wiping with a damp terrycloth towel.  Rinse the soap from your towel often and wring it out.  Use as little water as possible to rinse thoroughly.
7. Vacuum your carpet to extract the remaining rinse water.
8. If you're not working on a warm, sunny day, use a hair dryer to complete the drying process.  Be careful not to scorch the carpet by holding the dryer too close.
9. Allow the carpet to dry overnight before using.

After shampooing, use a terry cloth towel, wet-dry vacuum or an extractor to remove as much water and shampoo as possible.

To keep your carpet and floor mats looking great, use a fabric protectant like 303 High Tech Fabric Guard.  It's really cheap insurance against spills and stains.

SUMMARY
Most of us spend eight to fifteen hours a week inside our cars, so it makes sense that we should keep it neat and tidy.  Yet, finding the time to detail the inside of the car is difficult to fit into our busy schedules.   If you take just five minutes each time you wash your car to remove the trash, shake out the mats, and wipe down the dash, console and seats, you can stay on top of this detailing chore.  Then, when it comes time for a full interior detail, the task will not seem quite so daunting.