your questions are welcome any time, ignore the negativity/rant over nothing type of stuff, some people need/like to dump you know.
The motor in the aux pumps normally draws about 1.5 or 2 amps and when they fail they draw tens of amps and the circuit traces on the CCU melt. I have a bunch of motors in that condition. I actually am using a CCU that I patched by using small dia buss wire to solder across the gaps left where the copper vaporized. Its an ugly fix but works if that is all that is fried. Be aware however that there are some tiny relays that can fail on the CCU and the best solution is to either send the module to be rebuilt or find a good used one.
The fuse holder can be found at a PEP boys or similar or an electrical supply, maybe Radio Shack if they are well stocked (most are not these days!)
A regular 5 A (non-Slow Blow!) fuse should be about right I believe. It doesn't matter if you use a glass cartridge fuse or the newer ATC type used in automotive applications.
As for repairing the motors, let me know if your successful and I'll send you a few to repair, I believe they are pretty well sealed up and replacement brushes will be hard to find, Bosch made them with no easy repair possible (they obviously sell a lot of them) A rebuilt 1238301285R runs $163.
Also, I've used pumps from 126 and 124 models for the 123. They work fine. To do that you have to remove them and put them on the rubber mount on your vehicle. Using a thin blade screwdriver, spray WD40 under the rubber and twist the motor around till its free.

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!