104 plug access
Yes, the cover down the center of the valve cover needs to come off. First the cross-over tube comes off. The air cleaner side has 2 catches that are released, the intake side is a little trickier. If you look down where the cross-over tube bends down you will see there is a clamp around the rubber adapter that the crocc-over fits into. You can usually loosen this clamp with a long phillips or standard screwdriver. Then you will notice the 2 10mm nuts that also hold the crossover to the valve covr, remove these nuts as well, then the crossover can be removed, being careful to not stress the air intake temp sensor. You can remove the temp sensor if you'd like.
Next the screws that hold the coil cover in place can be removed, these all have 5mm allen heads. Once these are all removed, the coil cover can be removed, it's a tight fit at the rear, but it'll come off no problem.
No tools are normally required to remove the coils and wires. I hope I am correct, I believe this is a distributorless ignition. If I am correct, there are 3 coils above 3 of the plugs, and these each feed 1 other plug through a normal secondary ignition pigtail. I recommend marking where everything was prior to disassembly. Just mark the front one "1", the next one back "2" and so on to aid reassembly. The coil has a label on top that a magic marker will write on. On the ones without the coil you can mark a piece of masking tape or duct tape and stick it on there. The coils will simply pull off, as will the ones with the pigtail, all though not as easily as the coils. Just lay it all aside, leave it all connected. It's not that hard to reassemble. Remove the plugs, gap the new ones to .032" (0.8mm), install the new ones and torque to 29nm. Put it all back together and your done!