I would hand tighten the trans pan bolts - I do that on my 300D and lots of other similar fasteners not needing precise tightening requiring a torque wrench. Let's see, 7 Nm = 46.2 in. lbs. which is not much.
Thanks, I forgot about Auto Zone loaning tools (seems I have most that I need, except for some special tools).
It was mentioned that torque wrenches are not accurate toward the extremes. I tested the Snap-On click type torque wrenches when they first came out. Precision scientific gauges (spring and dial) were used to check out how precise the new click type wrenches were. I checked a 150-1,000 in. lbs. and a 0-150 ft. lbs. click torque wrenches and found that both were well within 1% of the specified torque value at the extremes and at three values in between the extremes. In fact, the 150-1,000 in. lbs. torque wrench was accurate down to 100 in. lbs. (it will loosen to 85-90 in. lbs.) and I used it a lot because a lot of the small fasteners I worked with required 100-120 in. lbs. As was written, click type wrenches must be loosened to the lowest setting and a few gentle taps of the handle end in your palm to ensure the machanism is completely loosened - I loosen my 150-1,000 in. lbs. wrench as far as the dial will turn without forcing it, back off about 5 in. lbs., tap the handle a couple of times, and then put it back into its case.
Beam type wrenches should be stored in a case or box they came in - nothing should touch the beam as this will damage the accuracy faster than anything I know of (I've seen more than a few thrown into a pile or tool box with other tools/stuff piled on them - surprisingly some were mechanics!).
I also checked my beam type torque wrenches and they were nearly as accurate as the click type, even at the extremes. Of course, using a 0-150 ft. lbs. torque wrench on a 10 ft. lbs. fastener is stretching it a bit, but can be done. Since I have done 1,000's of torquing operations (if not a lot more) on aluminum (heads, cases, etc.) with the beam type wrench with no problems - I have a high level of confidence in them. The click type wrench is easier to use, esp. in tight places (as was written). However, a properly used beam type wrench is more accurate than a click type that is not used properly. Believe it or not, there is a proper way to use a torque wrench and an improper way. I also calibrated my air wrenches and the torque applied checking against torque wrenches to make sure I was not over-torquing fasteners when I was making a living as a technician/mechanic.
Presently, I own 5 torque wrenches (3 beam and 2 click). If I had to only own one torque wrench, I would own the 0-150 ft. lbs. (or close to this range) wrench or its equivalent in kilograms or Neutons and a beam type if on a budget would be OK, or the click type if I could justify the extra cost considering how often I would use it - and the area where I was going to use it.
Hope this helps.
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1977 300D: 300,000+ miles
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