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Old 09-22-2001, 10:16 AM
psfred psfred is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150

There are hard rubber and steel stops on both sides of the rear door that are adjustable. The latch plate is also adjustable. You can also move the door on the hinges to adjust closing position.

Most likely, as all you did was replace the gasket, is that the side stops and latch need to be set a little further in.

To adjust:

slightly loosen attaching screws for stop plates and latch, just enough to allow them to move under pressure.

Close door and check fit -- it should be flush to no more than 1 mm below pillars. If it is high, push down firmly to move stops in. Open door and tighten screws.

If it is too low, set stops higher and repeat.

A bit fiddly to get the stops loose enough to move, but tight enough to stay put, but should fix the fit.

If you are getting water only at the bottom of the door or in the latch plate, the gasket is fine and the window seal is shot, even if it looks fine. Try to move the glass -- if it moves at all independent of the seal, replace the seal!]


While the seals on the sunroof may be old (and not too difficult to replace), the actual "leak" is in the sunroof tray inside the car or the drains -- MB doesn't attempt to make the sunroof panel watertight, but drains the leakage off down some rubber drain lines from the sunroof frame to the front cowl. If these lines are plugged or worn, the water will drip down the firewall onto the floor. Ditto if the drains are rusted through from outside (see previous posts).

A leak at the headliner is almost certainly a leak at the sunroof frame, probably from plugged sunroof drain hoses.

Naturaly, one has to remove the headliner to fix them......!

And, finally, the front windshield on these cars is also a "lace-in" window, subject to dry-rot and shrinkage/leakage. The 123's are now at the age where the seal needs to be replaced, unless it is never exposed to sunlight (ha!). Try lifting the edge of the exposed seal on the body side -- if it isn't very pliable and doesn't "snap" back down, it is shot. If it has little cracks or the edge has pulled back from the sheetmetal, or it has dirt underneath, it is already leaking! Rubbed spots on the paint under the seal also mean it is leaking -- it is too hard to conform to the metal. New gasket is on the order of $70, costs about $25 or so to have replaced at a glass shop.

DO NOT ALLOW ANYONE TO USE VULCANIZE IN PLACE SEALANT ON ANY OF THESE SEALS!!!!!!!! The rubber seals very nicely on the smooth metal and glass surfaces (that means you have to fix any rough or rusty spots before putting a new seal in!). Sealants will "set" quickly, preventing the seal from conforming to the glass and body, and the seal will leak. Don't allows the idiots at the auto glass place to talk you into using the black s.....! These are NOT glued in, as all new ones are. Silicone spray is all you need. Seal will need to be replaced again in 15 years or so.

Don't wait, both my 220D and my brother's 300D were rusted out from leaking windows, not from the outside!

1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Last edited by psfred; 09-22-2001 at 10:36 AM.
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