If you are talking about step #6, you are basically just doing a leak check of the modulator. Sometimes the little black rubber cap, on the modulator, has cracks and needs to be replaced or the modulator itself is leaking.

Steps 7 through 11 are for checking and adjusting the vacuum control valve on the IP. You are looking for vacuum, to the transmission modulator, to drop to nearly zero with full throttle.

From going through this procedure myself, I believe the bowden cable, modulator pressure and vacuum control valve all factor in on the shifting. Until you go through the adjustments, it is hard to tell which one is not working as it should.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )