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Old 09-17-2006, 01:20 AM
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Walrus Walrus is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NE Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roncallo View Post
I recomend two things before you do this.

1) Verify you can disconect the actuator linkage. This may be possible by removing the center vent rubber boot and center vents anc OAT gage and working throug the three holes or from the glove box or instrument cluster opening while looking through the center vent openings.

2) Have the actuator on hand when you size the hole. You might be best to also purchase and actuator bracket if available so you know where to cut. The bracket also retains the vacume line coupler.

Good luck
John Roncallo
Roger on #1... If I can't separate from the pod lever at the bottom (by grinding out rivet/cutting pod arm), I can, I believe, access it thru the openings you mention (but do not know about removing vents?). The attachment is directly in line with the left-most center vent. Incidently, after pod is out, it would be not too great a feat to rig a cable mechanism for manual control, no?

#2 I'm not too concerned with, as the bracket is loose from the heater box presently. The plastic box has broken loose in a rough rectangle encompassing the rivets, and is free-swinging except for the vacuum hose still attached (see picture above...jagged white line is roughly where pod is broken loose from the heater box). Good idea on having pod on hand before cutting... I may tackle this project this winter. I am concerned about the legroom flap pod, although it is working for now. My luck it will fail after this project, if it works out as planned.

I realize this plan is possibly frought with disaster; however, if un-successful, I can always fall back to dash removal, ehh?

ps: I did receive yours and Lynn's email... Thanks. Lynn's mechanic must be some kind of genius to have replaced pod without removing dash. Perhaps, as you speculate, the heater box can be removed without removing dash?
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Last edited by Walrus; 09-17-2006 at 01:28 AM.
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