Michael,

Best way to make the MDF in the trunk look right is to carpet it. Spray paint doesnt work too well on MDF as its porous.

To trim that you can either lave the amps screwed on, or I've created a surround made of pine wood, varnished to a nice rosewood-mahagony colour that surround the amps and really sets them off.

For a sub, dont forget you have a huge spare wheel well on that car. I used a large sheet of MDF over the wheel well, with weather sealant strip to make it air tight. The sub is mounted in this, and hangs inside the spare wheel (Thank goodness for 15" wheels!. You do lose the cubby hole, but its far better than losing masses of load space. Access to the spare wheel is fin, just unplug the sub, heave out the board with sub, and you're done.

In terms of porting the bass into the cabin, try this...: remove one of the rear speakers first... this gives you one 4in hole, then remove he other and see whats best. You dont need to cut te rear deck. I did, and wished I hadnt. No improvement in bass, and a lot more road noise into the cabin. Once you've found the right amount you need to remove, you could either cut 1 or 2 4 in holes, or you could relocate the rear speakers somewhere, and use their old holes for the bass port.

25W is fine for the rear, and 50 more than adequeate for the fronts.. *but* I think in time, you'll probably want to get more. Its probably worth gettin the extra. In any case, you may get fed up of the rear speakers (now you have so much clarity up front) and want to use the old rear channels to power the tweeters on their own. I suggest you run 2 sets of speaker wire for future flexibility.

As for mounting the tweeter coaxially, if it fits, go for it ;-)

Have a great new year, let me know your thoughts on this.

Brian



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Brian Drought
1991 300CE
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~drought/
ICQ: 2180069