OK - I did it!!!!

I have to say, it was quite a pain the first time. If I had to do it again it wouldn't be so bad.

Here are some of the details of what made my DIY work.

First, I followed the advice from "Bansai" - MUST READ!!!

Don't forget to disconnect your battery! I made a nice little fireworks show when I grounded some 12V source under there Stupid me!

First I tried a flex 16mm socket but it was too tall with a 3/8" ratchet.

The flex head 3/8" from Sears that Bansai pointed out with a 6 point 16mm socket (not 12 - don't risk rounding off that bolt!) did the trick. That ratchet can fit up in there and is long enough to break the bolt loose once you find out the right geometry. The bolts are canted toward the block so make sure your socket is aligned with the bolt before you try to break it loose. It is a serious PITA.

Once the bolt was loose I used a 16 mm flex head Gear wrench. It made backing the bolt out of the mount much easier. The flex ratchet had a longer handle than the gear wrench which made it better for getting the upper bolt loose which is why I started with it.

The 2x6 across the oil pan to distribute the force and a floor jack did the trick to gently raise the engine about 2" - yes that is all you need. Careful on this one too. I was worried about this step and took it very slow. Just raise the engine enough to get the mounts out.

I too had to take the bolts out of the A/C compressor and the small hose clamp to get the driver's side mount in and out. The passenger mount was easy to get out once the bolts were out.

Be careful aligning the pin on the mount with the upper perch. I put the upper bolt in (not fully tight) before I dropped the engine down to help keep it aligned. You might also thread the lower bolt in a bit too before you drop the motor down on the mounts.

The flex Gear wrench, a stubby ratchet, and a flex head ratchet all help a lot.

Hope that helps if others try the motor mount DIY.