Sockets 1 and 2. This isn't the best car and system to be working on if you are uncomfortable with electronics, I'll say that right now. Be sure to jump them with something that won't short out, some wire with a covering, not an old coat hangar.
The socket numbers are visible on the connector, even on one side, odd on the other, so these pins will be directly across from each other, 2 sockets on one end of the connector. If you look for the actual metal socket inside the holes, it's possible that only one end of the connector has the holes "occupied" which will aid identification of sockets 1 and 2, but the numbers should be there as well.
The power side of the connector is hot at all times, so be sure to disconnect the jumper when not cranking or running the engine.
Don't worry too much about the warm up regulator and such, this is temperature dependent, to properly test these you must use a resistance substitution box to simulate electronically a cold engine. Lets just concentrate on fuel delivery for now and see if this jumper test lets it run or not.