Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt
There are actually more downsides to the two person method. It requires that the bleeder valve be frequently opened and closed. This causes wear on it and also opens the sytem to possibilities of air getting sucked back in.
Just find a jar and appropriate sized hose. Fill the jar with some clean fluid and make sure one end of the hose is in the fluid. Attach the other end to the bleeder. Lift said jar above the bleeder (so the air flows up) get in the car and start pumping on the brakes. Keep an eye on the fluid level (remeber the rear reservoir) and try to keep an eye on the jar. I prefer to pump until its a nice clear color. Get out close the bleeder and move on. No reason to spend even $5 on a 99 cent solution.
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As I mentioned, I got both the jack stands and the floor jack: I am ready... I want to give your method a try, and yet at this point I would like to understand better how that works before going ahead with it. My understanding (please correct me if I am wrong) is that in order to get the air (and the contaminated fluid) out of the system at the time of doing the bleeding, the new fluid has to flow from the master cylinder all the way through the exit points at the bleeder valves, replacing the old as it travels down. So, has the method you described to be done in conjunction with the process described earlier by vstech, that is, first empty the reservoir, refill with new fluid, start letting the old fluid in the lines out, beginning from the farthest valve, then RL, FR, FL... filling the reservoir with new fluid as it gets low... until all gunky liquid is out? Is it at this point that you do your thing with the jar filled with new fluid held above the bleeder valves and the pumping on the brakes? Otherwise, if you don't do the other part first, how is the old fluid going to be replaced and any air possibly trapped along the lines from the master cylinder to the bleeder valves going to be expelled from the system?
Please pardon my inexperience about the topic at hand and be patient, you guys... Both what you and vstech have suggested seems superior to the other methods posted here involving power bleeders or the traditional use of an assistant (to pump on the breaks - with the resultant wear on the bleeder valves)... but I need to fully understand how it works before I can do it appropriately on my own.
And, if you know of a website that explains this process thoroughly (maybe even with pictures), by all means let me know.
Thanks,
Rino