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Old 11-29-2001, 06:55 PM
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JCE JCE is offline
Down to the Wear Bars
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: So Kalifornia
Posts: 2,189
My paint shop told me du Pont was one of the better paints around (Imron is the high plasticizer du Pont they use on premium bicycles). They told me the brand of German paint they use on MBs and BMWs, but I can't remember.

In the past he advised me to always paint the same color. This was because:
1) less expensive because they don't have to prep and paint inside the trunk, doors, hood, etc., and don't have to do as heavy a surface prep.
2) less noticable when there are rock dings or scratches when there aren't 2 different colors showing through.
3) less problem on resale. - your car ID plate has a color code on it, which will raise eyebrows if it doesn't match what they see. They will start looking for salvage titles, wreck damage, etc, and the more they look, the more they will find to fault!

He said that they tend to vary the amount of plasticizer for different body areas, using a lot on front bumpers - but care must be taken as too much will let small rocks or door dings 'star' like a windshield when hit.

Number of coats of paint and clear coat are useful, but depends on if it is a show car or a 5 year ownership daily driver. My body shop feels that surface prep is at least as important as number of coats, and finishing steps likewise (color sand around door edges, orange peel, etc.)

Most of the newer paints are water base, unlike the solvent based older paints. We have 2 smoke silver MBs. They both polish up like glass, and both look great in the garage under the same light, but the older one has a warmer, slightly buttery glow to the reflections, while the newer one looks a little cool and harsh. They are the same color code, and look the same when there are no reflections. The paint 'feels' better on the older one as well - can't explain it.

If you are planning on keeping the car, I would find a top painter who really understands surface prep, German or du Pont paints, finishing steps, and is willing to provide references and write up the steps (s)he will take on your car. It may not be more expensive than other shops, as this type of person will often be able to color sand, color match, and blend with solvent paints in just the areas that need it, airbrush panels with just small defects, and re-clearcoat the entire car. What they cost in art is often offset by cost savings of not having to sand/mask/spray the entire car. My last paint job (vandalized with coolant and brake fluid Celica and Acura) were done by this type of shop, and came with a life-of-ownership-no-deductible guarantee on the paint and labor.

Avoid places that only tape and that don't remove bumpers. The bumpers should be sprayed with a different mix anyway, from what I have been told. Also, local Air Quality district laws will effect how your car is allowed to be painted. Some places are allowing only a certain amount of paint per shop per month, and specify what can be used, and whether or not they can paint entire cars (The restrictions mean that it is more profitable to repair and touch up than to spray an entire vehicle!). Fender Guitar moved out of SoCal because the Air Quality people would no longer approve the varnish they always used!!!
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John

2003 Firemist Red/grey leather SL 500
2015 Palladium Silver/black mbtex GLK 350
1987 Smoke Silver/burgundy mbtex 300E Sportline (SOLD)

Click to see 87 300E

Last edited by JCE; 11-29-2001 at 07:03 PM.
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