Unleaded gas is fine; I use mid-grade for added ping resistance and a bottle of Chevron Proguard with Techron with each tank to keep the injectors clean. I also time the engine to 30 degrees advance @ 3,000 rpm w/o vacuum in order to get best performance. (Smog changes resulted in restricted advance from the factory of only 18-22 degrees...the iron V8 runs much better with the added spark advance.) Leave the retard system intact, it helps raise idle speed with the AC on, and the rest of the time it does not operate above idle speed or when coolant temp is above 100C.

Adjust the valves every 10,000, replace the chain at 100,000 because it is cheap insurance, and use NGK BP6ES plugs; they have a wide heat range and last forever. Replace all, underline all, the under the hood vacuum hoses and add worm clamps to the MAP sensor line and AAV lines to ensure positive vacuum seal. Your D-Jet operates off vacuum signals, so good vacuum is critical.

Idle speed is 700-800 rpm in neutral. If you cannot adjust it down to the proper range with the big brass screw near the AAV, you have a sticking AAV and replacement may be in order. Sometimes a dose of cleaner into the AAV can free up the AAV piston so it works freely.

I believe the clock is quartz, mine is, so if it is not working check your fuses. It would be wise to replace every old fuse with new brass or copper conductor fuses to prevent failures. The original fuses have aluminum conductors and they tend to corrode over time and cause intermittent problems.

Nice car...good combination...resist the urge to add bundt wheels. I think the hubcaps should be painted white to match the body, mine are body color and all the others I've seen were the same.

230/8