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I can some what visualize what you are describing but it can be difficult to give you accurate fix without viewing the problem. A common problem with someone using the little touch up bottles is the paint is very thick and a "bead" is applied. The end result that most users get is that "looks OK from ten feet away. Purchase some 1000 and 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Dip a small square of the paper in a bowl of water and dish detergent. Using only fingertip pressure sand the bead. You should be able to tell when to switch up to 1500 as the paper will get a lubricated feel to it. This is somewhat hard to describe and the "feel" is obtained from experience. After sanding the best looking results are obtained with a powered buffer. Use a mid grade rubbing compound (not polishing compound) and beginners should only use a foam polishing head and no greater than 1200 rpm. This is actually something better learned in person but it can be learner through some basic trial and error. If you are going to jump in start somewhere inconspicuous for the trial and error stage, don't start with a hood or trunk lid.
Don't waste money on colored waxes and snake oil scratch repair. If the paint is gone it's gone. Best some of these products do is disguise the blemish temporarily.
Once your skill is profected you can easily see what blemishes can be rubbed out (tree sap, bird do, etc) and what will have to be repainted. Armed with your buffer, foam head, rubbing compound and a spray bottle with water (keep the compound lubricated) you can take on the world and make some pretty decent cash on the side.
Last edited by TX76513; 08-31-2007 at 03:50 PM.
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