Quote:
Originally Posted by MB-Dude
Thanks Jim for the reply - especially for providing the order of the control modules.
When I press the Diagnostic Button, the LED does NOT light at all. In fact, at first I thought the LED may be burnt out. I will try it again tomorrow, using some longer wait times and hold-the-button times; different combinations based upon your idea of longer sync time needed.
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The fact that it doesn't light was why I asked; that means that it's not connected and is open-circuit. So to use it you'll have to connect it to the proper point. That may be more difficult than it appears.
It might be easier to construct the "home-brew" reader in MENU#2. Then you can use it on any pin. The "hard" part is the small connector pins to properly interface into the 38 pin Diag Connector.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MB-Dude
Also, I swapped the battery between this car and my '79 240D. Ironically, they use the same aftermarket battery. After 3 engine starts today (after the battery swap), the CEL has not stayed lit. One of the things that always stuck in my mind (and this will sound crazy) is that whenever the car would start, I could 'sense' that the CEL would stay on. This is because I could perceive an ever-so-slight change in the sound of the starter as the engine cranked. My electronics background tells me that... maybe... I have a marginal cell in the battery that fails periodically/occasionally; especially under load – such as under starter load. In my case, the CEL only latches on during engine start – never during operation/driving. Thus, the reason I asked question #3. And remember, my CEL problem resets simply by removing the negative battery cable – this is not considered normal for the CEL. Please correct me if I am wrong on that point.
Cheers,
Jeff
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You can test it with a hygrometer (available at most auto stores) to see if the cell is bad or use a battery tester that can load it properly. If it's low, then best to invest in a new one.