Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two
Yes, I know this has been posted before and I found several threads for cluster removal. So, here's my situation. I've got the cluster out -- broke the center tab out of the left most cable; glue tomorrow.
I took the cluster out because I have no cluster lights -- hate driving at night and not knowing how FAST we are going. I figured the pentiometer (fader) worked because the light behind the outside temperature gauge works. So, I get the cluster out and the brown light sockets at the top won't come out. The plastic is brown above the sockets and is melted. So, I remove the outside temperature display and the odometer to get to the front. It is definitely melted.
I get the 2 big bulb out along with the 2 small ones (what do they do? Back light the odometer?); measure the resistance on one of the big bulbs and it is 3 ohms. Go out to the car battery and bingo, it works. Now what? Is there a fuse someplace I should have checked first? I'm guessing that the Westinghouse 5W5 E12EC is too much wattage, right?
Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I'll post photos when I can get the digital camera interfaced.
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I just fixed my cluster lighting problem. Early on I replaced the stock dull light bulbs with a much brighter (blue) bulbs. Then the left bulb seemed to burn out. Not really though. Upon inspection, I saw the plastic "cups" had
distorted with the heat produced from these bulbs.
No matter what I did I could not get the bulbs to work.
So I got another speedo/circuit assembly at the junk yard. Wrong one.
Then I grabbed my Brumel and began to hone out the distortion on the plastic cups. Cool!
It seems the distortion was lifting the bulb off the circuit board just enough to break the connection. Plus it was really hard to remove and reinsert the bulb too. But not now.
