View Single Post
  #2  
Old 11-25-2007, 10:54 AM
bodyart27 bodyart27 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas
Posts: 802
Oil drain cont.

Third tip – getting the tube pushed down into the grommet. This is the PITA part. Best I can tell you need to have the grommet in the pan first, get the tube started into the hole with the new o-ring, then pull down like hell. I first tried a strap method (pic 5). That was a good start, but I couldn’t yank the strap down hard enough to get the tube completely seated. The straight tube with the elbow on top will get jammed up under the turbo until you can get the drain tube to slide into the grommet. You’ll know when the tube is completely seated as the top elbow piece will then align perfectly under the turbo providing just enough gap to slide the gasket in place.

To get the tube pushed in I used a pry bar and two hose clamps. You’ll pry down against the top hose clamp, the second clamp is there to not allow the top clamp to slide down the tube as you pry. I’m prying against a big piece of metal (I forget – it goes to the engine shock or engine mount – it’s a super beefy arm). In my opinion, this is THE TECHNIQUE to get that puppy pushed down and seated. (pic 6)
Attached Thumbnails
Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing-strap1.jpg   Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing-pry.jpg  
__________________
~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net

Last edited by bodyart27; 11-25-2007 at 12:51 PM.
Reply With Quote