With ALL SORTS of due respect to Mike Tangas (the man's afraid of NOTHING), I strongly disagree with his suggestion that you crack the bleeder loose. Because if for whatever reason you ease off on the pressure on one of those 4 caliper pistons in there, and one of those pistons moves ever-so-slightly in its bore, then it would be possible to ingest debris or air through the open bleeder. If the pistons are difficult to depress, then there are other issues like either a bad caliper or master cylinder problem, both of which are highly unlikely.
How I do it is thus: Loosen brake reservoir cap, and wrap a thick rag around its perimeter just in case the fluid overflows (keep a close eye-it's corrosive). Now, remove the pins that hold the pads. Grab a large channel-lock pliers and squeeze the center of the pad backing(between the 2 pistons) into the caliper, compressing the pistons into their bores. Insert the new pad. Repeat for opposite side. Re-install pins, and you're done installing the pads on that side of the car. Repeat for opposite side. Now, remember that there's play in the system at that point; slowly pump the brake pedal repeatedly until you get a firm pedal. Do NOT push pedal all the way to the floor; halfway is fine and serves this purpose.
"If everything seems under control, you're simply not going fast enough" --Mario Andretti
1995 E500 street car
1986 Porsche 944 Turbo S track car