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Old 03-24-2008, 08:23 PM
donbryce donbryce is offline
MB, love..hate..love..
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB Canada
Posts: 1,173
Subframe is now out. Relatively speaking, with the engine supported, it was too easy. After removing the brake calipers, ABS brake sensors, and the torsion bar:

1. I placed a small 4" X 4" block of wood and a floor jack (those cheap $20.00 ones from the Walmart) under each lower control arm, the wood being just enough to prevent the dust shields from hitting when the subframe drops.
2. I put another jack under the front crossmember of the subframe, giving it a solid 3-point support.
3. I sprayed, and let it sit for a day, each of the 4 bolts with penetrating fluid. I was able to get all of them out with a regular 1/2" drive ratchet and socket.
4. I let each jack down a bit at a time, until the subframe was sitting on the small jack frames. I then manipulated 2 car dollies under the A-arms, so now I can wheel it in and out from under the car to work on it.

As the pics show, all of the underside/sides of the engine are now right there to be cleaned up and worked on. I'll be dropping the oil pan to replace a leaking O-ring on the oil level sender, cleaning up the threads on the exhaust manifold bolts (somehow fastened to the manifolds), and probably re-install the compressor and piping, as well as R&R the starter and alternator connections.

In the last pic, you can see how the 2 rearmost subframe bushings were nearly 1/2" short of their proper height, compared to the front ones and one of the new ones (on the far left). I wonder why the rears only are so worn out?
Attached Thumbnails
560SL subframe removal questions-100_0726.jpg   560SL subframe removal questions-100_0727.jpg   560SL subframe removal questions-100_0729.jpg   560SL subframe removal questions-100_0728.jpg   560SL subframe removal questions-100_0730.jpg  

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1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus
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