These are the exact same bolts. In fact, I removed the tensioner and kept the bolts intact. When ready I used the new tensioner, placed the gasket and inserted the original bolts. I then evenly torque to specs. It doesn't leak from the bolts, but instead leaks around the side of the tensioner toward the back between the bolts. I then removed the tensioner and tried another new gasket and same issue. It's as if the tensioner is warped. Today I'll try to gather up two new gaskets from the dealer and see if I can seal things using two gaskets. Using two should not have any impact on the tensioner from what I see.

I don't really think you need to remove the rocker arms. As long as you mark everything (which I did) to identify current positions, you really can't get lost. Yes, when I removed the cam gear the cam moved, but since everything was properly marked, it was a no brainer as to where the cam gear needed to go. I just didn't know how to move the cam and then "GSMITH" told me about the little stubs in the middle of the cam shaft and two seconds later I was fully recovered. If I didn't use the chain loader and was not confident about using vise grips to hold the chain to the cam when replacing the chain, then yes, I would consider removing the rocker arms.

Another tip for those wishing to do this job. I purchased aftermarket valve cover gaskets from Autohauz. These also leaked like crazy. I ended up buying from the dealer and they fit tighter without slipping (ie, curling on the curves). No issue after using the real gaskets. The driver's side is the biggest *****.

I'll let you know what happens,
-Tony-