Thanks everyone for your input. You are right about after build tinkering in the past. The previous owner had 2 extra buttons/switch installed on that window switch plate next to the gear shift lever. I understand one was for the cooling fan activation. I guess his fan switch was bad or undependable so he wired it to where he can apply 12v directly to the magnet and activate the fan as needed. The car also had aftermarket alarm and stereo with amp. The person I bought it from had received the car (from the original owner) and decided to remove all the alarm and extra wirings because he believed that the alarm or something was preventing the car from starting. He said he took out a lot of wires pertaining to the alarm, etc. He was later able to get the car cranked and running. All this was before I got involved and took ownership of the car.

After removing the wires, he was applying voltage directly to the fan magnet via a wire jumped off the positive post of the battery. I have since replaced the fan switch with a new unit, filled the coolant, cranked the car and let the fan activate accordingly at a mark slightly past 80 on the temp gauge. I observed and confirmed that temp was holding steady at that mark and fan was automatically turning on and off as needed to maintain the temp at operating temperature. I returned to the car the next day and decided to flush the old coolant out and replace. I removed the lower radiator hose and let out all the coolant I could. I filled it back up and cranked the car. It idled until the temp went past the 100 degree mark and the fan never came on. After confirming that the fan should have been activated by now (based on the temp reading on the dash), I turned off the car and let it cool down until this coming weekend when I can get back on it. My suspicion is that the water level is low and needs topping up so the coolant can tough the fan switch and let the switch know how hot the coolant really is. I am suspecting that the coolant was low in the block due to the drain and fill I did at the radiator. I hope to locate the engine block drain plug this weekend and also drain and flush the block. Is my suspicion of why the fan didn’t come on this last time around even possible? With the sensor’s position on top of the head, is it not possible that a 2 inch drop in coolant level will leave the sensors dry and unable to determine an accurate condition of coolant temp? I need to locate the drain plug for the block.

I forgot to mention that the wires for the window switch are built like sparkplug wires and each one plugs unto its male counterpart (on the underside of the window switch) individually. So, you can unplug the wires one by one. They are not like 3 or 4 wires going into one connector and then that connector plugs unto the underside of the window switch. Is there a way to test the wires from the fuse box to the switch, etc.? I would like to confirm the routing of these wires so I can maybe trace them and see what I can find. Also, is there a way to test the R2 – Electric Window relay? I replaced it with a used spare but situation did not improve. I am really counting on help from this forum to resolve these issues, especially the window fuse. If I can find a car of same year in the Houston TX area, I would love to park side by side and compare wire routing, etc. Your response is highly appreciated, thanks. It’s almost weekend and time for me to touch the car again.

Greg