Vacuum line to the modulator is intact. I did replace the rubber connector today, just because it was a little hardened.
I studied on the bowden cable today. I cannot see where the adjustment is made (but then again I didn't pull the air filter housing either). Once all the rods are set to length, be it to a set measurement or a "without tension" adjustment, then the adjustment is made to the bowden cable as a last step.
Proper procedure is to move the relay lever (that the bowden cable is attached to) toward the passenger fender (if LHD) until it touches the idle stop of the transmission. Attach the connecting link free of tension; adjust if necessary.
As I read/wrote the above paragraph, it dawned on me that the connecting link had a slide adjustment and a set screw. They way I am reading this is once everything is adjusted (throttle rods), the connecting link (#22) is not connected to the relay lever (#23), the lever is moved gently to the right until it touches the stop, then #22 is attached. If anything has to be moved to make the attachment then the length of #22 is adjusted so the end fits on the ball stud without tension and the bowden cable is now adjusted.
I'll try making this adjustment perhaps on Sunday. No car work Saturday - it's the first pistol match of the year and I haven't practiced at all - been too busy repairing a car
. After that I'll study up on the modulator itself.
Again, this procedure is listed for the 126, may not apply to other models.
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72
'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis
2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel
Non illegitemae carborundum.