PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum - View Single Post

Jeremy5848 · #12 08-22-2008, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Wilson

. . . Got a deal on a new vacuum pump from e-bay UK for $87 shipped w/gasket. It is the dam type gasket though. Can I just cut the dam out and use it?

I removed the chain-retention "basket" to one of my storage boxes and then used the dam-type gasket.

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Wilson

. . . Got the OM606 fan and clutch, belt. Should I just go ahead and replace the tensioner, water pump, and thermostat at 130k? . . . The glow plugs seem to work fine, should I leave them alone, or replace them while the intake is off?

That's pretty much up to you and how you like to have your car maintained. My tensioner was replaced soon after I got the car, because it was worn and tilting. The water pump was replaced because it leaked. Thermostat was replaced just because I was in there. As regards glow plugs, I replace mine when the burn out and not until.

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Wilson

. . . Got a 1991 300E gauge cluster that I am going to switch out for better light, and a used cruise control amp to replace while I'm in there. Is there anything else that needs attention while I'm in there?

There are two relays behind the instrument cluster, one for all the warning buzzer functions and another for the various instrument and switch lights. If all that works, nothing to do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Wilson

Got a "F" vacuum fitting to tidy up the engine compartment. I will remove for testing the EGR as well. How do you guys recommend sealing up the ARV opening?

I left the ARV in place and just put a cap on the vacuum inlet pipe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Wilson

Thinking about replacing the fuel lines with viton lines. I found the set for $121. Is there a less expensive source?

There are biodiesel-resistant hose materials available for much less than that. I don't remember the ASTM number but Parker and other hose people have it. Lined [gasser] fuel injection hose will also work for more money. I used Viton for the little injector return hoses only, bought the 1/8 inch line from Fryerpower.

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Wilson

Is there anything else I should look at fixing while I have the front and top of the engine exposed? I would like to never have to go in there again. Although I figure I will have IP issues to deal with down the road.

The alternator may eventually fail but probably it will be only worn brushes that are part of the regulator, built into the alternator. They are fairly easy to R&R and the part is only about $25 on line.

Check the various pressure switches in the a/c system when you have it open to fix leaks. The switches protect the system by turning on the aux fan, preventing the compressor from engaging if no refrigerant, etc. You have to open up the system to replace the switches, it might be prudent to replace all of them so as not to lose the refrigerant if one fails later.

Make sure all of the fuses are new and are the copper kind, not aluminum. If your serial number [last 6 of VIN] is greater than A292112 you will have an external fuse in place of #12, for the climate control blower. It mounts to the shock tower in front of the fuse box. Older cars can be retrofitted. The blower draws up to 28 amps, the old fuse in the fuse box tended to burn up under load.

Jeremy