Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite
Ask any German driver if Frostbite type A/C is/was ever at the top of His/Her list
of most important attributes for an automobile.
Wasn't until somebody dragged somebody else (maybe Werner Von Braun was the dragee) out to Death valley at Summers height that word filtered back to
Deutschland that a refrigeration system would be appropriate in a luxury Auto.
RANT: You can,with a little effort,have your MB deliver Frosty Air Instantly...
1.Parallel Flow Condenser (As Large As YOU can STUFF in front of the Radiator).
2.NEW (NOT REMAN) High capacity Compressor.
3.Clean,Clean,Clean:Evaporator,Condenser ,RADIATOR,System Hoses,Etc.
4.Nylog for the New O-Rings.
5.NEW SEALED Receiver/Dryer.
6.Vacuum Overnight.'Holds vacuum? Then:
7.Pressure test with Nitrogen. O.K.? Then:
8.Re-Vacuum after Nitrogen is out.
9.Fill with the proper amount of R-12 and Lubricant.
10. Make sure you have "Long Johns (or Janes)" on.
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NEVER! I repeat NEVER test a system with vacuum... test with nitrogen FIRST!!!!!
if you test with vacuum, and it does not hold you have just ruined your drier!
look. think learn!
testing with vacuum is stupid stupid stupid.
it's only at most 14.7 psi differential from atmospheric pressure.
a HUGE leak will not show up with vacuum on a crappy charging manifold.
IF IF IF IF IF IF IF you have a DIGITAL micron gauge, AND AND AND you have experience with charging rates and vacuum rates of drop, you can get a feel for a tight system, BUT nitrogen is WAAAAAAAAAAY safer and easier to test for a leak.
PLEASE get it through your heads. DO NOT TEST FOR LEAKS WITH VACUUM!@!!!!!!