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Old 09-08-2008, 11:45 PM
dabenz dabenz is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: eastern ND
Posts: 657
The220D, as close as to the order you asked:

1) rusty master cylinder exterior could be from a leak from reservoir-to-master cylinder seals or even from sloppy filling (you've ruled out a leak into the vacuum reservoir). Brake fluid is a good paint stripper if it isn't washed off - most just wipe it dry and take paint off over a few years. I'd just clean and paint it, then keep an eye out for leaks.

2) shuddering brakes could be anything from a warped brake disk to sticky caliper pistons to the master cylinder. Kind of depends on where in the braking process the shuddering starts and stops. Try, when the vehicle is moving, pushing the pedal just until you feel the pads hit then hold the pedal still then release the pedal. What happens? Try it again with a bit more foot pressure. Working brakes are more important than a working engine, in my opinion.

3) Black specks in the primary filter could be rubber bits from aging fuel hose segments or it could be dead diesel bugs. Diesel bugs love water in fuel. I'd biocide the tank before doing the Diesel Kleen in the secondary filter hooey.

4) if you have the stock glow system then be aware that it's not fused - the electrical power comes from the side of the headlight switch, of all places. 50amps behind the dash and through the firewall twice without a fuse was the dumb part of the design. If those "coat hangers" between the plugs get hot then so are the plugs between the hangers - the best part of this series system. How long are you glowing and at what outside temperature? I glow about 40sec after the salt shaker turns color when the outside temperature is 65F or warmer.

5) if you pull the secondary filter then change it. Otherwise open the drain at the bottom corner and let some run into a small can - I do this at a minimum the day after I get fuel, even though I have a water separator installed. Two or three ounces is enough, more and you run the risk of pushing an air bubble into the injection pump. Transfer that "fuel" to a glass jar and let it settle for a day or so - you'll see the water if it's there. One of my guesses is you got a bad batch of fuel (it happens), maybe with a bunch of water. Button it up and pump the snot out of it with the hand pump. I usually give the hand pump a few whacks every time I check the oil, which is every day I run the engine.

6) my other guess is you've got a battery on its way out, or you aren't driving it enough to fully charge up, or you aren't glowing enough. A handy tool is one of those floating ball battery testers. I'll let a battery sit overnight after a long, slow charge (one or two amps for a day) then check again in the morning - all balls should still be floating. Could be you're getting a bit of corrosion at the cable connectors and it's always been slowing the starter down - the cooler fall weather means the lubricant in the starter is getting "stickier." The starter needs to spin pretty fast, but if glowed properly then the engine should fire quickly - the first cylinder that gets a full compression stroke.

7) my biggest guess is if the hard start really became an issue after the vacuum pump fix, and not when you put new fuel in, then you pushed a big air bubble into the injection pump which can be a pain to get rid of. There is a vent on the top of these injection pumps you can open, just like the vent at the top of the secondary filter. The bolt just forward of the oil fill - don't mess with the barrel clamp nuts. Tip the car nose down a bit, open the vent then slowly hand pump while tapping the side of the pump. Use your third hand to wipe up fuel as it runs out the vent. Won't get it all but every bit helps.

Hang in there. You've got a car that needs very little tinkering once you get it running properly. Most can't say that.
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daBenz - 1970 220D
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