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Old 09-13-2008, 11:48 AM
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Mama's 300D
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 482
Here's the progress so far- I locked the trunk halfway on our trip up here to MN at a restaurant stop. I've read in the manual about the master lock sytem, and know that to unlock it, I have to turn it back to the left (CCW), to unlock. The key will not turn either direction, whether I push it in or leave it at flush level with the knob surface. I called AAA yesterday, and the locksmith tried for a half an hour to free it up. He was very confident that it is one or more of the tumbler blocks sticking, which is what the dealer in Minneapolis (Sears) and the dealer in St. Louis's receptionist (don't even say it, I know) told me. (Plaza Motors) The man that is knowledgeable with "the older" MB's at Plaza had gone home sick, I was told. But she seemed up on the subject and very sympathetic, and seemed to know that if I had already used WD-40 and wiggled it for a while, I needed to call a locksmith. So, back to the AAA call, and the guy couldn't get the thing open, but he seemed very positive that it would be nothing to do with the latch, but the sticking blocks or springs in the lockset. It has almost never been used, and he told me that this happens frequently with these types of locks, even though I haven't seen another 123 anywhere up here. (They're all over the place in St. Louis). His suggestion was to find out where the fastening bolts are behind the cover so we could drill the srews\bolts out without ruining the actual lock set. Thus he could save it and I could use the original key and only have to replace the black cover around it. Also, he had one blank to match my key, but after making a key for it, he bent it trying to use more force than I wanted to use on my lone key for the car. So the lock is really jammed tight. Could the master lock vacuum system be causing this? Everything seems to work, except the back drivers side door, which has it's plunger broken. ( The whole thing, plastic and threaded screw part, comes out). My work tools are in the trunk, along with my Haynes manual, auto oils and stuff, and repair tools, tire and spare. If I had to, how could I break in without doing massive damage to the car? Would forcing the knob with vice grips work? Thanks for any and all comments or tips. DOES ANYONE HAVE A PHOTO, OR COULD POST A PHOTO OF THE INSIDE OF THEIR TRUNK LATCH SO I COULD KNOW WHERE TO DRILL THROUGH THE BLACK LATCH COVER?? I'm having to visit the library to get on line, so if there are any ideas, please post them by 3:30 today(Saturday 9/13) I really appreciate it. Lee
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1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)
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