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Old 04-12-2002, 10:31 PM
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by royaiii
5 bottles of Chevron 20w50
1 bottle of Mobil1 10w30
1 Mobil 1 M1-205 Oil Filter
I have been following your posts regarding oil
quantities, leaks, pressures, time-to-pressures,
seals, sitting too long, and performance gains.
May I respectfully suggest that you not play chemist
with your oil. Oils can fracture or stratify if you mix disparate
types in the same crankcase. This can screw up your engine.
The quality of modern oil is such that you can use any reputable
brand and it will exceed even the most exacting manufacturer.
I have 411,000 miles on a VW Bus ( whose engine is at full-load and full rpm pretty much all of the time ) It has the original thirty year-old crankshaft with no appreciable wear.
I change the oil only every 5,000 miles.
I have 137,000 miles on my 450SEL, change the oil every
5,000 miles, and drive the hell out of it, too.
I use Castrol GTX 10-40, and take care of the simple items that have more to do with engine longevity than your "brand" of oil.
A clean tight air filter is critical. No vacuum leaks, critical.
Perfect breather hoses with secure clamps, critical.
Oil level, critical ( dead set *middle* of dipstick markings ).
And the most important thing of all:
Never sit around and idle your engine.
Drive off as soon as you have oil pressure for thirty seconds, get the engine warm as quickly as possible by driving gently until your temp gauge is in operating range.
There is a lot of snake-oil salesmanship regarding oils/additives, most of it is just money-making.
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Time 4 Oil 2 Pressurize-mbfrt1.jpg  
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