Pull up the carpet in the little center console tray area, just the front part, there is a screw there that holds down the center cover, remove it. Passenger side mirror adjustment lever, remove it, (pull it up).
Now you should be able to lift up the whole plastic wood grain cover from the back, it will be slightly hard due to the front/rear speaker adjustment plugs in here turn the cover to one side.
Look to the front of the gear shift you will see were the light pugs in. You will not be able to completely remove the cover unless you remove the shifter itself (not neccessary for bulb replacement).
Replacement is oppisite, just watch out when lowering down cover that you get the F/R speaker switch in it's plug.
BTW this is a good time to do some cleaning down there, waxing the plastic wood without the window switchs in the way really makes a difference!