I like your hanger method on the mirror install.
When we first designed the mirror, I was installing them on cars for prototype/testing and for photos. My method was a simple one (for an Engineer anyway):
I put the right side of the mirror mount into position. Sitting in the driver's seat (front edge), I put my right palm up and against the flat of the mount (left side), pushing upward with my right arm. With my open left hand, I give a hammer-hit upward on my right elbow to pop the mount home.
Worked every time.
Stretched headliner: The front tips, B-pillar, and C-pillar areas are attached by christmas-tree clips into the steel. The door openings are easy to remove also, plastic clip-edge just pulls away. The bows/bars aren't too difficult to remove once you get your hand in there. Biggest problems I had with the stretched versions were:
Avoid tearing around the sunroof opening, big stress at the rear corners / easy to tear (did that)
Rear window opening, I believe that you need to remove the rear window to get it un-hooked from the body steel. I sent a car to the crusher with the headliner hanging only from the rear-window opening, just wasn't worth it to me to pull the window for a spare headliner (should have).
The mirror upgrade:
I've never seen one on a US car. It was an option in the '90s, I don't remember when it started. I have seen them in cars in England, but not in the US. My '94s don't have the cut-out mount plate, the '95 does, not sure why.
It is an electrochromic mirror, like most new ones (Gentex), variable dimming with photocells front and rear to compare light through the glass (including dimming feedback) to the ambient light from the front sensor. The circuit board has drive output for outside EC (auto-dimming) mirrors also IIRC, but it was never offered on the 124 chassis. I have some R129 outside EC mirrors I had intended to modify for my '91 (sold in '96 though), never did it. Maybe now. The mirror circuit also has a "reverse override" feature built in that will clear the mirror for backing up regardless of light conditions (+12v signal), but Mercedes didn't use it on the 124s.
I don't know where you'd find one used, but GB/England seems like the place I've seen them, perhaps DE/Germany also. Be especially careful of buying one from a wreck, direct impact wouldn't do good things and could breach the seal / let the EC fluid leak out. If the mirror looks gold, it's probably still functional but showing its age / UV exposure. If you can see a line through it (bubble / waterline type thing) it has probably started to leak. The fluid is what darkens, if it's leaking it's junk. Competitive mirrors from Donnelly (Land Rover et al) had (in my experience) much bigger problems with seals failing, very difficult to find a good used one for my Land Rover when mine leaked. Anyway, that is the only thing I know to look for.
Wiring is simple: Ign +12 and ground will turn it on. There is IGN and GND in the dome light / seatbelt warning circuit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pifcat2
Well done Jeff! If I might add for the early stretched / not glued to molded board version: - Here is the bar in headliner channel that you need to pry out of the hole in the roof.
- The sides and rear have a sewn in seal that tucks over the metal edge.
- There are several ways to install the mirror but I found the easiest way is to compress the ball detent ends with channel lock pliers and insert coat hangers as shown. When the mirror is pushed in pull one hanger at a time to release the detents into the bracket.
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