PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum - View Single Post - Solder question

bustedbenz · #2 04-28-2009, 02:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sd300td

I thought I could tackle this job fairly quickly, as I've replaced brushes in a motor before (RC cars/trucks, etc). Wrong. I can't seem to get the one of the brushes soldered correctly. It's the brush that attaches directly to the plastic "plate", inside the the metal sleeve that also holds one end of the copper coil. Sorry no picture, just hoping someone who's done this repair before knows what the parts look like.

I'm starting to wonder if my solder iron is not getting hot enough as it takes a long time to melt the solder (more than 10 seconds) and it doesn't seem to heat the points of contact enough, quickly enough, etc.

I also wonder if I should try a different solder with a lower melting point (lower than 425 degrees?), maybe a smaller iron tip, as the one I have is a little big but should still work...

I'm willing to take it somewhere locally, but they don't have "solder shops". Tried an audio/video repair store and the owner looked at me like I had swine flu. He said they don't "specialize" in automotive.

I was tempted to ask him if he specialized in "solder", but didn't want to be a smartass. Besides I'm the one who needs help; just surprised he didn't want the business.

Anywho, any tips, tricks, ideas, places in San Diego that might be able to help? I don't think the indy mechanics will be anxious to help out...but I know more than a few. I've read the DIY here and used the kit sold by the folks up in Washington. Frustrated.

I'll even consider dropping it in the mail if someone with their
"solder-iron license" is willing to help out.

I can't imagine many combinations of solder and soldering tool in which a >10sec melt time is considered normal. For the usual brand of basement workbench soldering I've seen done and done myself, it melts about as soon as you touch the tip to the material.

My first thought is run out to Radio Shack (or the local equivalent) and pick up a new iron. They're fairly cheap.

Here's my second thought. I have NEVER seen the part you're working on in person. But I'm going to take one of your verbatim statements: "It's the brush that attaches directly to the plastic "plate", inside the the metal sleeve that also holds one end of the copper coil." Are you trying to let the solder "glue" the brush to a plastic part? You sound experienced with this sort of repair, but I am not familiar with any sort of solder (that is not to say it doesn't exist) that bonds to plastic. So if that's actually what's happening then I *think* you're describing a lost cause from the start. If you're soldering metal to metal then my first suspicion would still be a soldering iron that wasn't getting hot enough.