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The only addition I'd make to the above is:
1. That the MB shop manual says to replace and not clean the oiler tubes if dirty/blocked. If you clean them, they need to be absolutely spotless and completely free of any debris internally, and each and every squirter hole has to be totally free of even the hint of obstruction - and do not, period, try to poke things through the holes to clean them. If you think about it and look at the flow diagrams, every drop of oil in the car has to eventually go through these things...that's a lot of oil. And like a rock in a river, even a small obstruction will pile up stuff behind it. When I cleaned mine, I used thinner and 1500/3000 grit sandpaper (yes, this exists) on the inside of the tubes; when done, I would have been comfortable with using these items in an operating theater. I wound up discarding one of them because it seemed that a P.O. or mechanic had poked around one of the oil holes and changed it's diameter/misshaped it. I think that enlarging the holes might decrease your oil pressure, and at idle in gear on a hot day, this might be the difference between enough and not enough lubrication.
If one of these holes is blocked, it will not take long at all to destroy hundreds of dollars of parts, never mind the labor costs.
2. make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that you have the NEW oil tube fittings down ALL THE WAY into the bearings. Use a rubber mallet. They WILL pop out if you don't. And NEVER, NEVER remove, then reinstall the fittings. They are good for one insertion, after that, the barbs get worn and won't grip as well. The good news is, that they are not expensive.
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