Well, if you do plan on attempting to salvage the engine, pull the plugs first and drain the water ASAP. Spray a bunch of deep creep or other penetrating lube inside the plug holes as the rings are more than likely rusted to the cylinder walls. Pouring a bottle or two of trans fluid down the intake wouldn't hurt, either, especially if you're not going to be able to work on it for a while - it'll displace the water away from the intake valves & seats.

Pull the valve covers and drench everything in new oil, then manually crank the motor @ the main pulley (with a ratchet) to get the water out of the cylinders and get the valves moving. If you're lucky and it turns over, drain all fluids - oil, gas, trans, coolant and replace. (brake fluid should be OK). You can jumper the fuel pump to empty the tank for you, as well. Pull the distro cap & spray with water dispersant (WD-40).

Your electronic components can usually survive if they're dry by the time voltage is applied, so open up whatever you can and dry it out.

If the car gods smile upon you and it actually runs, let it idle for an hour or two and see what happens. If it's OK, rev it a bit. Basically, baby it. After about 10 hours of runtime, replace the oil again.

As far as the interior, pull everything and let it sit in the sun for a few days. Leave the car doors & trunk open as well. Let it all dry out.


It's going to be a very labor intensive job, but if it means that much to you, you may as well give it a shot, though rust is going to be your number one enemy, and he'll strike everywhere.

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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.