Quote:
Originally Posted by a5a1234
1. Air idle valve - when screwed all the way in, the engine slows, but does not stall.
|
If engine was not fully warmed up, this is normal. If it was warm, you should be able to almost stall the engine. But only if the AAV is working properly and they seldom do.
Tests seem OK
Quote:
3. Timing
Vacuum measured at the distributor (using vacuum line disconnected from distributor), is 15" Hg (therefore 10 degrees BTDC).
Vacuum measured at the line coming from the manifold, to connect to central locking = 10" Hg.
|
Usually on my car, the vacuum is higher when measured on a manifold connection. I measure vac either with tee into hose that goes to MPS (best) or directly onto the small hose that comes up the back passenger side of the engine before any of those gizmos on the firewall.
10 deg BTDC is a lot of advancement - I don't think I could even get that. Slacken the distrib bolt and rotate back a few degrees while watching vacuum. You may find best vac with slightly less advance.
Quote:
4. TPS
I attempted the test where voltage is measured at terminal 17 of the TPS connector, and a 0.016 in feeler placed between the throttle stop and the the throttle. I couldn't get the test to work - there is supposed to be voltage (with ignition on) when the feeler guage is in position, and no voltage without the feeler guage. I couldn't get any voltage at any time. I assumed that I had to "piggy-back" onto terminal 17, and compare with car ground. Is this correct?
|
You should be measuring ohms (not voltage) - the resistance between 12 and 17 should be infinity with the feeler gauge in place and zero with it removed.
In other words, when you take your foot off pedal, the resistance should be zero and all other times infinity.
Quote:
5. A question about MAP adjustment
I had a close look at my MAP sensor today. I have read in several places that there is a hex screw that is to be adjusted. I cannot see any hex screw on my MAP sensor. When looking at the end opposite the electrical connector and sensing port, there is a hole where the "epoxy covered Full-load Stop Screw" should be positioned. This has been removed, which I understand was often done. However, I seem to have a clean cylinder there, with a small cylindrical hole at the bottom.
Joe
|
The adjustment is made with a 4mm Allen wrench. The 4mm socket is quite small. But if you have read the description on Rennlist on adjusting the MPS, there is an outer screw and an inner screw. Someone may have unscrewed the inner screw. That would certainly "screw" things up
