[QUOTE=soothappens;2336782]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911
Appreciate the comeback. As far as the spring I found the thread on possible low pressure ,and figured what the hell I checked everything else. I seen an attachment from benz manual calling for 27mm , my spring was almost a quarter inch shy stretched spring as per attachment and tested.
Idle was improved slightly also started better. I had plumbed a spare cummins electric pump in line before the manual one on the engine a long time ago as fail safe . (thought manual was at end of life ,and a plus if wife runs out of fuel) I flip on this pump and idle would smooth out , top end power would increase = problem somewhere .
Back to 21 page thread. Found video on cyl balance (adjustment of injection quantity ) read training manual quote : "changing the amount of fuel delivered by the MW and P pump simply requires turning the flange sleeve that rotates the plunger in the barrel. after loosening the two nuts movement of the sleeve is possible around the plunger up to a max of 10 degrees" Easy right ? Next sentence "the pump is then run on the TEST STAND until each pumping unit has been adjusted to *factory specs* end quote.
I have noticed since I bought this car that one barrel has been more toward the retard position #3 thus the first one I tried. It smoothed the idle and the engine perked up. I then rotated the barrel listening to idle while my other arm was on valve cover and fender wall. when engine and fender stopped vibrating I locked it down.
Not technical or factory by no means , but it runs good now. I was frustrated enough that pick and pull was going to get a call. While I have countless tools to adjust hydraulics , I have nothing to diagnose this diesel. Tools and training are costly 600 to test pump alone . In comes the diesel mechanic who's first suggestion was pulling the pump and testing.
Alternative was the heat gun . He said it will never be exact until pump is pulled.
Butterfly affect I know . But it received a second life and you guys received another user .
Thanks
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Your last post makes more sense to me now. I can see why you suspected something in the Fuel Supply System.
As you most likely have read on the Threads rebuilding the Fuel Supply Pump is extremely easy. The Valve Kit the sell here is aroudn $10 and you would need to scrounge up a 5mmx1.5 mm cross section O-ring (I found a local BMW Dealer that sells the O-ring but had to special order; they clame it will be here today; won't know if the other forum member gave the right size of the O-ring until I see it.).
Besides the Plastic Valaves, springs, and the )-ring the only thing that goes wrong is that I have seen the Piston Spring Break and the Piston get scored up by dirt or rust and stuck by the same items.
Concerning the Fuel Injection Pump when they are calibrated the Full Load Fuel quanity balance per cylinder takes pressedence over the idle Fuel quanity. A poor idle causes no damage.
The reason for this more applies to Trucks or Engines that operate alot close to full load is that over time a Cylinder that is getting more fuel at Full Load can actually cause the Crankshaft to Fail.
I have also seen a Detroit Diesel 71 Series V6 where the Fuel Rod Linkage that went to one bank of Cylinders was worn and the other bank of 3 Cylinders got more fuel and carried more of the load.
The result was that the 3 load bearing Cylinders got deeply scored and 1 Cylinder Liner Cracked. The other bank looked absolutely normal.
On a Car Engine it does not matter so much because the Engine is not under a Full load unless you are towing something heavy at high speeds.