Thanks to the tips I got yesterday concerning changing the instrument bulbs on my C230, they are all done today.
Removing the airbag took about 5 minutes.
Removing the hex bolt was another matter. Cripes is it on TIGHT! Not wanting to use the steering lock for support, I enlisted some help, and we got it off. I bought the special cluster-pulling tools from MB, and they worked really well. Changed the seven bulbs, and back in the cluster went.
The wheel went back on, and then the airbag. (got the horn wiring done properly too)
Made sure I didn't turn the key on with the bag off, and no warning lights!
Since I don't wear a watch, I was REALLY missing that clock...