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Old 02-20-2010, 10:42 AM
Stoney Stoney is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 176
I know what you mean

Quote:
Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post
On a job where I have more time and freedom, I'd like to do it more deluxe. This lady had three tenants/housemates living there and 4 days to get it done. This was't actual tile, just the big sheet vinyl stuff. We did a bathroom once with Kurdi under the thinset and tile and so far, praise God, no leaks.

I came around to the POV of your last line. I had a hard time sleeping one night wondering in what ways my patched in subfloor would screw up down the road. Could have ruined the whole job, and redoing it would be starting over, essentially. I got the foundation for the 1/4 inch Matrixx stuff pretty level so I think it's OK.
My firm has the Engineering and Design contract to rebuild the floors of schools that age from 110 years to less than 30 years so i have seen the entire range of designs that just didn't work.

In the teens to 20's they used Asphaltic Concrete (65/35 mix) which lays easy but the asphalt shrinks due to gassing off of the petrochemical base. I see floors that are sinking, rippling, etc. Abate the ACM tile and shotblast the asphat to the concrete base which is frequently Cindercrete (aggregate was clinkers and coal chips) not bad but not really stable. Scarify and lay down MASCO with a nylon mesh embed and then Silflo with appropriate sized aggregate (depending on depth can be up to 3/4") in 2" lifts then top with Silpro.

The contractors work nights/weekends and over Winter/Spring/Summer breaks-last week I had guys going 24/7.

What is funny is the most trouble is the 60's to 70's floor slabs where the Architect decided that WWM #9 mesh would replace rebar. I spent a week figuring out how to fix 10 floor slabs in a school because the original builder didn't install rebar at the beams and all the slabs have cracks over the beams-lots of retro install work-new rebar, epoxy, etc.

On a multi family building with a wood floor system, NEVER use chipboard, flake board, OSB or Luan-they can shrink, will absorb twice their weight in water and heave. I've seen many ceramic tile jobs that were well laid but failed due to heaving of the subfloor. A $20,000 job resting on a $1.98 base!

If you have to redo a bathroom-use DITRA and KIRDY system for a total waterproof membrane. I trust it so much I used it in my Mother in Law's bathroom.

If I can be of help just PM me.
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