Relatively easy job, though these things honestly tend to have a very long life compared to the 'moving' components, such as the struts themselves, balljoints, control arm bushings.
I only state this because it is possible they are not contributing to any suspension problem you may be having.
Anyways- to your question- this is essentially the same steps as replacing the struts, plus mount removal, since the mount comes out the bottom.
1) Loosen wheel bolts on target side (do one side at a time)
2) Jack under center of crossmember until tire is 2-3 inches off of ground
3) Remove wheel
4) Place jackstand under control arm close to balljoint. Stands with a 'notched' top designed to receive a round axle fit perfectly right next to the balljoint. Stands with a flat top may not be safe.
5) Lower car onto jackstand (other side onto tire as normal).
6) Make absolutely certain that jackstand is secure and on solid ground, because once you release the strut, that spring can fly!
7) Remove nut that secures strut to mount (22mm wrench, 7mm hex key to hold strut stem from turning)
Note: 7mm hex key is not a popular size, and many sets do not include it!
8) Recheck that stand, then jack under crossmember just until strut travel stops (perhaps not essential, but this clearance will help later)
9) Remove brake related wires from the plastic clamp that secures them on the strut.
10) Remove 3 bolts that secure strut to steering knuckle assembly (19mm 92ft-lbs)
11) Remove strut by pushing base upward (compressing strut) until you have enough clearance to take it out. If you need a bit more clearance, you can jack the car a bit higher, but do be conscientious of that loaded spring, and the fact that the brake line and swaybar are still attached as you go beyond normal travel.
12) Remove 3 nuts that secure strut mount to body(10mm)
13) Remove strut mount
Assembly is reverse of removal. Camber could be thrown off very slightly, since new mount may have a (very)slightly different seating. Aligning to the 'ghost' marks made by the old nuts should be good enough, or you could mark them in advance with spraypaint.
Best of luck, and happy wrenching.
1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.