Thread: Wire ID
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:54 PM
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zeke zeke is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: The Alamo City, TEXAS
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Ok, I will follow your advice re resoldering the spade connectors.

Unfortunately, I only read it after I bought a wiring harness from a junkyard. They couldn't separate the $875 wire from the rest, so they sold me the whole thing. t was actually worth the price, just to see him remove the dash and wire by wire unplug the harness to get it free.

The problems I am having are these...
One of the cube relays above the DS wheel failed and had to be replaced - AC was not getting power.

Replacing the relay restored AC power, but the #8 fuse (compressor/blower) runs REALLY hot. It's the only fuse on the block that runs hot.

Running a tire pump through the cigar lighter makes that 3-pole junction box hot enough to melt. So does running the AC, though it may run that hot with the AC off....not sure about that though.

Voltage at the battery with the car running is just over 12V

Leaving a car door open for a few hours to overnight will drain the battery so the car won't start.

Sometimes the car will start, drive somewhere, then have too little power to turn the starter on the return trip.

This weekend, left the house with a full battery, drove out of town 60 miles, and the battery died. shifting got weird, windows and antenna barely moved, and no crank. Had to get get towed home
Battery read 9% on the home charger.

I now know this is because the battery is not recharging. I am recharging the battery every night with a charger to prevent stranding dear wife.

the 3-pole conenctor does appear to short the left and middle terminals and provide a junction for the 2 wires at the third.

Finally, the tach has always been flaky - flatlinees, then swings wildly, then works for a while, then stops working.

Oh yeah, I will also be checking the ground points
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