Quote:
Originally Posted by S-Class Guru
Hmmm, based on the std Co/HC/Nox curves, it appears you were running too rich on the first test, and leaned it a bit on the 2nd test, but not enough to bring the CO and HC down to spec. NOX will peak up the nearer the mixture gets to perfect, and go down when either rich or lean. HC/CO go up when rich. CO goes down the leaner it gets, but HC goes back up if the mix is excessively lean.
I've forgotten most of this stuff, but I got this from a chart somewhere in the archives, that one of the guys published. You might do a search to see if you can find it.
Sounds like your Lambda control is now working better, but did you check the EGR valve? May not be that, though, because it really doesn't come in at idle, and your low-high speed numbers are behaving similar.
definitely check all the temp sensors.
DG
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Hello,
Thanks for the HC, CO, and NOX explanations, that is helpful!
I do not believe that my car is equipped with an EGR system, but I could be very wrong.
Here are what my row of three sensors for my M103 looks like.
Starting from left to right...
1. Two prong, blue base, used to trigger the aux fans at 105C.
2. Single prong, sends engine temp to instrument cluster gauge in car.
3. Older style temp sensor, has two prongs. I think this is why I am so confused with regards to this sensor. Everyone is telling me to look for a 4 prong sensor but I have not been able to find it. I think my car happens to have this older sensor which is significantly more expensive than the four prong everyone else seems to have.
PeachParts Store Link:
www.allpartsexpress.com/item.wws?sku=BSH006937&itempk=57106&mfr=Bosch&weight=0.09
Now I can test the left and center sensors with the information posted by an above forum member. Does anyone have the ohm values I should be getting for the older style water temp sensor on the right most side of the photo?
THANK YOU!