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Old 08-09-2002, 12:18 PM
marinmbfan marinmbfan is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 54
Having just completed this job on my 1986 300e (car would only start in neutral, needed to adjust switch so it would start in park, replaced bushings on general principle), I'll add my two bits on getting the bushings in. As previous posters have said, you can remove the arm from the transmission shaft and work on *one* bushing on the bench, but the one that goes in the tang coming down from the shift lever itself has to be done in place. The tang is in a tight spot. There is just a little clearance between the side of the shaft tunnel and the driveshaft, and the tang sticks down between them with just inches on each side of the tang. After trying lubrication and heat in combination with my longest pliers, I could not get the new, stiff bushing pushed into the hole. The only way I was able to do it was to do what Randall Grubbs described and put a washer and bolt through the bushing, put the bolt end through the hole in the tang, with another washer and nut on the end of the bolt, pull the bushing through the hole by tightening the nut. The ideal setup like this would be to include in your little stack of nuts, bolts and washers a thick, pretty large diameter something on the "destination" or "output" side so that as the bushing is pulled through, the leading edge has room to push all the way through the tang and pop out. When I did the "easy" one in on the bench, I used a 19mm socket as a spacer. On the "hard" one I did in the car, there wasn't even room for a socket up there, so I had to use just a washer and let the leading end of the bushing just smash against that as the trailing end was pulled through.
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