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Old 09-02-2010, 02:51 PM
Billybob Billybob is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Cape Cod Massachusetts
Posts: 1,427
Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Dave's website is a godsend! Yes, my bolts do look pretty corroded. Are there steps I can take to make sure I don't snap one (aside from the obvious PB Blaster soaking)? Or is this a case of assuming it's going to snap no matter what. If it's a strong likelihood, I guess I may reconsider ... that could turn into disaster fast.
The only part you can see from underneath is the bolt head, so that is not much of an indicator. The subframe bolts are very fine thread which screw into internally threaded tubes extending downward from the chassis. Spray penetrants may help somewhat with any corrosion between the bolt head and the washer/plate above it but not much more Iíd suspect.

The subframe bolts use blue threadlock so as with any blue threadlocked fastener a very useful tactic is to use a propane torch to heat the fastener for a minute or two perhaps. The fastener doesnít need much heat, blue threadlock softens at about 150 F so if you get the head of the bolt a little too hot to touch with your finger thatís about right. In the case of the subframe bolts heating the head will by convection heat the treaded shaft so you shouldnít have any problem.

I have done complete subframe rehabs on 4 or 5 of my personal 124 cars and on a pair of my 201 cars and have never had a problem with a subframe mount bolt, Iíve done another dozen or so on other cars and the only problem was one car that had been hit in the rear, the subframe tweaked and as a result the bolt and its receptacle where bent some which put some lateral friction on the bolt as it was being removed.

The bolts and nuts securing the various multi links will deserve some attention where a penetrant like Kroil is well worth the $15 a can costs.

With regard to the rear springs, try to get a look at the ends of the springs, there is a tendency for the first coil or a portion of it to break off with age and mileage. Itís kind of hard to see it because itís down inside the rear LCA.

I havenít priced springs of late but they used to be about $100 for the pair, it would seem a relatively small additional investment to have a new rear suspension! New rubber spacers would be in order also but youíll really need to get everything installed and rode in before you can determine the actual ride height and what thickness spacer will be appropriate.
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