Quote:
Originally Posted by DocSarvis
I dont agree with the statements concerning the liquid filled gauge. The liquid dampens pulsing but as a rule are MORE accurate then non filled gauges. However accuracy is a function of the quality and expense of the gauge not if it is liquid filled or not. So anyway I just finished REV 3 of my first pop tester. I haven't tried it yet other than to pump lots of fluid through it to make sure its CLEAN. I'm using a large gas line filter for a filter and a reservoir. The cost break down is as follows .... parts about #0 bucks, lathe to make fittings $1000, welder to mosify jack $600. So there you have it, just don't tell my wife.
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I can explain why a non-liquid Gauge is more desierable. But, at the same time for a persond rebuilding his own Injectors a Liquid Filled Gauge is OK.
This is the way I used to do it at work:
Hook up the Injector to the Nozzle/Pop Tester.
Turn the Valve to cut off the pressure to the Gauge.
Rapidly work the Tester handle to get rid of all of the Air; after which you work the Tester handle at various speeds and repititions while observing the spray Pattern. You want to see a good spray pattern even when you work the handle slow and constant; you want to hear a long chatter.
Next you open the valve a little to expose the Gauge to pressure. I would work the handle medium slow just to see where the Opening/Pop Pressure is.
After that I would very slowly work (one stroke of the Handle) the handle and watch the Gauge Needle moving up to the Opening/Pop Pressure.
As I am approching the Opening/Pop Pressure I would like not to see any Fuel drops leaking out of the Injector Pintlel.
When I reach the Opening/Pop Pressure I want to see the Gauge Needle reach that pressure; hear the chatter of the Nozzle and see that Needle suddenly and rapidly fall to a lower pressure. (This is the part that you cannot do with a Liquid Filled Gauge. Also no Pop Tester made by a Fuel Injection Equipment Company comes with a Liquid Filled Gauge and they all have a shutoff valve to protect the Gauge from some one "Rapping" on the Tester Handle.)
So in short you want a slow pressure to build up to the Pop pressure is reached and the Injector Pintle to suddenly open, spray and close; and this can be observed by watching the Gauge Needle.
Spray Nozzles with sticky Pintles will not pass the Test step in Blue. They will open OK but the will not close as rapidly as a good Nozzle will. The spray might start off good but the dribble at the end of the spray cycle.
Spray Nozzles with a bad seating area will just squirt ot the Fuel instead of atomizing it as you approch the opening pressure and the Gauge Needle will fall backwards slowly.
The other test you do is to slowly bring up the pressure to 200 psi below the the Opening/Pop Pressure and see if your Spray Nozzle will hold that pressure and count the drips. So many drips pre an amount of time are allowed.
Also it took me longer to compose and write this than it does for an experienced person in a Shop to test 1 Injector.
But, this is DIY and and I believe you can rebuild a good set of Injectors with the Liquid Filled Gauge.
It is great to have a Welder and a Lathe; and, any other equipment you can be creative with!