Reading stored codes is a logical starting point for diagnosing your problem. I recommend that you: (1) read all codes and write them down, (2) erase all codes you possibly can and write down any that will not erase, (3) try to work your top, then (4) if still no luck, read codes once again and report all your findings in a follow-up post.

The controller outputs a code by issuing a series of electrical pulses. You can view these pulses by watching the indicator lamp in the soft top switch blink. To ouptut a code of "12" for instance, the lamp would blink twelve times.

To trigger a code output, you short socket 10 of the diagnostic connector to socket 1 or any other convenient chassis ground for two to four seconds. While the short is connected the lamp should be on. The instant the short is removed the lamp will go out and after a brief delay will begin to slowly blink-out a code.

The diagnostic connector is located by the right front shock mount on the 2nd fire wall in the passenger compartment. It is rectangular and has a plastic cover.

A code of "1" indicates no faults and no hard top in place, while a code of "20" indicates no faults and the hard top is assumed to be on the car. Other codes identify a specific problem such as a limit switch. The codes that you find dictate what component of the system you troubleshoot next.

Repeat the read procedure until you have all of the codes. You implicitly know you have them when the sequence of codes begins to repeat.

You erase a code by reading it, waiting three seconds, and then shorting socket 10 to ground for six to eight seconds. With early versions of the soft top controller (up to v. 7.6) you must read a code twice before you can erase it. Naturally, this constraint is met if all of the codes are first read before any are erased.

I should mention that an LED may be wired between socket 10 and ground to read codes. It will blink out of phase with the lamp in the switch -- that is, when the lamp is on the LED is off.