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Old 11-04-2010, 01:51 PM
benzhacker benzhacker is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Currently in SoCal, originally from far far away
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olivier View Post
Hello all,
The Story:
First I run on wvo and I want to say that its not the problem but it might be related as some crud might have been dislodge in the IP.
I first put a bit of ATF in the tank to clean the injectors/ pump etc... as the old tale says.
On the same time I emptied the CAT.
Shortly after the car was not as swiftly as it use to be? It was odd...
All pointed to the cat removal, lack of back pressure etc... I was gutted ( like the cat) as I thought it would have been better for the engine.
Anyway, after awhile, I got a spare CAT reinstalled. To my surprise, the car was still the same, meaning, never like before...
I was again gutted...
It use to kick in strongly, now it was like a soft take off... Granny style...
I run the car on strait dino, expensive. Still the same as on wvo.
I tweaked the wastegate. Same .
I play with the advanve on the IP, up and down. No change, that was too odd, the car was the same no matter the fuel or the advance?
I injected high pressure air into the line backward, I swapped the lines fed and return, I changed the fuel filter, clean the pre filter, same... The tank strainer has been removed long ago , then this is not it.
Back on WVO, I decided that perhaps I needed to put some ATF strait into the IP, not in the tank, then I run about a litre of strait ATF.
The car went worse... Sob Sob... Now under load it can barely rev over 3000, while on park it can go over 5000.
After the ATF, I run 2 bottles of professional injector cleaners strait and left the pump sucking in this over night.
In the morning, it was the same.
I did a Molly purge pro line strait as well, reving up and down.
Same...
Then I decided to go for more ATF ( as it was the bother, I thought it might clean the blockage) but this time under load, I snuggle a bottle of ATF under the hood and went on the highway, on strait ATF I was getting highter rev, 4000+, but as a litre run fast under load it didn't last long and I had to stop on the merge. EEK!
Also all fuel lines are squeaky clean.
The bother is under load as the car studder and cannot keep up...
What I think might have happen is that the cleaning property of the ATF did dislodge some crud in the IP and now its blocking a hole or something.
I am going to try and do the delivery valves this week ( if its a dry weather)and perhaps by next week I'll remove the pump ( but this is daunting me a little, thanks to GSXR tho for all the info, really helpfull, see below)
Injection Pump Removal on OM606 for Bosch Service

Anyone has any idea?
I am thinking of getting 5 litre of atf and putt it in the tank, that should last enough to run the car on load for a wee while...
Reckon?
Thank you.
Olivier
Olivier,

I'll start by saying I haven't read through this whole thread, but I do see pointers on the typical fuel system issues with these cars independent of the fuel type (WVO/SVO) that are good advise. I will also state that I have some concerns about the integrity of the conversion and the number of components in the system that you have described.

Can you confirm what your basic fuel system consists of beyond just an FPHE? I may have missed it.

I did not see reference to how you are managing your fuel supply (testing for water content, particles, oxidation), which is a fairly extensive problem set to explore. I'll start with the fuel system first and see if we can fill in some blanks I'm having on understanding your system.

I noted that you have removed the fuel tank fuel strainer and thus I presume you are using either a home-grown single tank system, or a dual tank with small secondary starting/purge tank, but it's not clear to me which of these assumptions is correct.

The type of two-tank system I would speculate you might have consists of primary tank (the one that came with the car) is filled with WVO/SVO and the secondary (5-10 gallons or so in boot tank) is used for starting the engine and and purging the lines before shutting down the engine. Please confirm the type of fuel tank setup you are using.

Do you use any sort of controller, or is the switchover (assuming a small diesel tank) completely manual? From the overall thread, I'm guessing fully manual which is completely fine so long as you have gauges for temp. What is the temperature you use to determine when to switch? What is your average temperature during running?

What sort of solenoids are you using? If this is a single tank system, this won't apply course (I'm hoping this is not the case). Without sufficient heating of the fuel or a purge cycle to cleanse out the fuel lines, solenoids, FPHE, Injection Pump and injectors, there is a tendency to gum up and restrict flow.

Do you have an electric fuel pump to help push the fuel to the front of the car, or are you counting on the mechanical lift pump to pull the heavy lot of potentially low temp fuel forward?

Is there any sort of fuel outlet heating? Are the fuel lines from the tank to the engine compartment insulated? What sort of electrical or coolant heated components do you have between tank and Injection Pump that you may not have mentioned?

As for fuel management questions, I'll wait until you've responded to the above.

-bh
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