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Old 11-28-2010, 02:03 AM
Billybob Billybob is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Cape Cod Massachusetts
Posts: 1,427
Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Ahhhhhhh it never ends ... now I noticed one of the hubs is "loose," as in I can grab the rotor and wiggle it quite a bit. I may have caused it myself because I was trying to knock the rotor off with a rubber mallet (not with titanic swings or anything though). This was the same side that the funny axle boot came off, so maybe that wheel was involved in some incident. I'll do some research. Maybe it's a bearing thing. Whatever it is, it's one more thing I don't know anything about to address before I can get my car on the road again. I think I'm taking longer on this project than most people take restoring whole cars. On the bright side I'm certainly learning a lot. This is like graduate school.
Other than that, I did get the differential off the frame (a little bit of progress), so it's sitting on a scissor jack and block of wood where I can clean it up. I also got the other axle out ... it had some rust-dust on the splines and no grease, whereas the other one had some grease and is rust-free. Will clean that up when I clean up the axles, which I didn't get to tonight. Had late T-giving meal with the family which was great but I didn't get much time to work.
I also got a few bolts loose connecting the arms to the hub, but kind of stuck because I can't get the rotor off, so I can't get to the dust shield, which I need to turn or remove. I just ran out of energy and gave up for the night.
I'll do a search on rear wheel bearings, but if anyone has any advice on the wobbly rear hub ...
If there is play in the hub the bearing is toast, it is an interference fit and it rock solid normally. The good thing is that with the wheel carrier separated from the linkage and off the subframe just about any competent shop can R&R the bearing. If it was still connected it takes a special tool to R&R it in situ. Bearing is about $60 last time I bought one.

With regard to your earlier questions regarding the axles, you can clean and pretty the cans won't hurt! Some folks claim that synthetic diff oil is a proper replacement I have not seen any evidence that it is in any way equal to or better than the MB specified grease #A 001 989 05 51 Ringgelenkfett Grease for rear axle shaft 150g tube. The grease that MB specifies is of much higher viscosity than diff oil, the theory that diff oil will some how not be slung away from the rotating parts by centrifugal force easier than higher viscosity grease is counter intuitive. The best evidence is that MB spec'd grease is used in MB axles installed from the factory and often last for 200,000+ miles.

As far as cleaning the axle parts, whatever solvent dissolves the axle grease is the one to use; I use gasoline because it's the least expensive.

I donít think there is a thread about 124/201/129 axles so the concerns people express are unrelated; it is extremely easy for these axles!

The grease fill is 120 g per joint, after cleaning and partial assembly fill/pack the ball/cage/spider with as much grease as you can, move things around a little to distribute the grease, squeeze the remaining balance of the 120 g into the wide end of the boot. Just like bearing grease when driving friction will heat the grease lowering it's viscosity and distribute it within the jointJust try not to get grease on the bootís lip which will contact the lip on the can you want the rubber boot interior and the metal can exterior in the areas that will be under the metal band grease free, if not sometimes when you attempt to tighten the band the boot will slid off the can. If itís clean that wonít happen.

If you have one disk stuck in place you should first check that the E-brake cable is not seized, and you also might need to back off the star adjuster to move the pads inward enough to clear the disk ID. If the cable is seized usually youíll need to hammer the disk off until itís free or the e-Brake pads come apart or the mount springs break.
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