Quote:
Originally Posted by LandYaghtLover
I too plan to do the same with the rings and that duck bill plastic thing. Just need to order and take a day off to remove it all and get the intake cleaned before reinstall.
But I did fit my idle. I crimped the tube to an almost closed position. I did so little by little. Was easy since all the rubber was new, so the idle control valve just came on and off without a fight. Eventually I got to an idle I liked. The tube is still open on mine, just not a whole lot.
The 560 is a bigger engine, so maybe it should be open. My understanding was that the tube was there to let some air through to prevent a full out stall incase the IAC reacts slowly.
Anyway, idle is at 800 now and everything seems ok. But I still have an irregular idle issues. Hence my wanting to replace the rubber under the intake next.
By the way, the vacuum trees to the injectors on mine were the worst. They had cracks all over!
|
Land:
You gave me an idea. I'm going to try the hollow tube. Just for giggles to see if it makes any difference. I'm the third owner. It may be wrong but, the books say its crimped.
Also, from experience. If you remove the intake replace every soft bit you can. You'll find all the soft black rubber has turned into hard black plastic.
Replace the vac lines and rubber ends going to the throttle valve. You can't get to them later. Remove and clean the throttle valve with carb. cleaner. Replace the gasket.
Delete the EGR system if you don't have emissions testing. It's the source of all the coke and crap you're going to find in the intake. I made an EGR tube cover plate out of 1/8" aluminum. Trace the EGR tube gasket for the pattern. Cut out using a jig say with metal cutting blade. Easy to work aluminum. On the exhaust manifold remove everything. Take the threaded adapter from the manifold and match the threads at a good hardware store. Install a hex bolt with thread sealer. Or, leave the fitting and screw on a 3/4" NPT pipe cap if you can't match up the threads the other way.
Remove the vacuum switch (red top) plug with a fine thread metric bolt. M10 1.0 thread pitch, ~3/4" long. Plug the "a" port on the throttle valve. Facing the firewall there are two small vac connetions one above the other. On the diagrams they 're marked "a" and "b" On mine it's the one on top. The "b" and the "c" (larger one on the side facing the passengers side) is for the fuel evap system. Use these.
Get ready to do some serious intake cleaning.
Any questions, parts numbers, stuff, gimme a shout here or PM.
Been there, done that.
Oh, take lots of pictures before you touch anything.
Dave