Sorry I'm late to the party here, but anyway. The easiest method to tighten all the rear links is to life the rear wheel carrier into the "loaded" position with the car still jacked up. Ideally you would have measured this height before starting the job, but for stock suspension, approx 15 inches from fender lip to wheel (hub) center is close enough (make that 14" for lowered/Sportline setups). Disconnect the sway bar on both ends. Remove the rear coil spring, jack wheel carrier up to the ~15" level, tighten all links. Reinstall spring & reconnect sway bar ends.
If your spring compressor does not have the ability to remove the rear springs without disconnecting the LCA (which is a strong possibility, unless you have the special Klann short-shaft for rear springs) there is another option. First disconnect the sway bar. Then compress the spring as much as you can, and see if that will get you to the ~15" point. If not, remove the inner LCA bolt and pull out the spring. Put the LCA bolt back in loosely. Tighten all the other links. Reinstall spring and inner LCA bolt, but DO NOT tighten it. Reconnect sway bar ends. Lower the car on the ground with large blocks of wood (say, 3-4" thick) under the tires - this gives you more space to slide under the car. Add weight in the trunk to attain the 15" distance from wheel center to fender lip. Slide under car and tighten the inner LCA bolt. The end.
About the Loctite 574 anaerobic sealant... where the FSM specifies using this stuff, IMNSHO it's just not worth using anything else. Red Loctite is not even remotely similar and should never be used. I've seen many variations of silicone or similar sealants used instead, but again this is not a good idea. Click
here and
here for photos of the MB stuff... it's not that expensive, use either one, they are the same sealant just made by different mfr's (LocTite vs OmniFit).
Nice work on the subframe, btw! Looks great! My one other tip is to replace all the rubber hoses which connect to the fuel tank, and the rubber boots which seal the openings to the fuel tank area. Change (or remove) the tank strainer as well. It will NEVER be easier than with the subframe removed. Do it now and you'll not have to touch it for another 250k+ miles.
