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Old 01-06-2011, 06:53 PM
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BodhiBenz1987 BodhiBenz1987 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast
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Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Ideally you would have measured this height before starting the job, but for stock suspension, approx 15 inches from fender lip to wheel (hub) center is close enough (make that 14" for lowered/Sportline setups). Disconnect the sway bar on both ends. Remove the rear coil spring, jack wheel carrier up to the ~15" level, tighten all links. Reinstall spring & reconnect sway bar ends.
I'm not sure measuring it beforehand would have been to good a reference point, because one side was actually lower than the other. Not sure if that was due to a worn subframe mount or some part of the linkage, but hopefully it won't be the case when everything's all put together ...
The compressor I borrowed did get the springs out with everything attached, so hopefully can get them back in.

Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
About the Loctite 574 anaerobic sealant... where the FSM specifies using this stuff, IMNSHO it's just not worth using anything else.
I used the Permatex version of Loctite 574, not the red threadlocker Advanced told me to use (). The NAPA guy called Permatex and they gave him the equivalent product. I thought Permatex and Loctite were the same company? I can get the number off the package when I get home. I can take them back out and put the specific sealer in but I hate to do that if this one's OK. The FSM just said "sealing compound (e.g. Curil, Loctite 574 or Hylomar)."

Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Nice work on the subframe, btw! Looks great! My one other tip is to replace all the rubber hoses which connect to the fuel tank, and the rubber boots which seal the openings to the fuel tank area. Change (or remove) the tank strainer as well. It will NEVER be easier than with the subframe removed. Do it now and you'll not have to touch it for another 250k+ miles.
Thanks. I'm debating whether to do the tank strainer now or suffer later. Advantage of doing it later would be doing it outside, and after I run the tank to near-empty. I don't know if I can handle a face full of diesel in a sealed-up garage right now. How much harder is it with the subframe on? Worse than brake lines?
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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