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Old 01-07-2011, 06:03 PM
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BodhiBenz1987 BodhiBenz1987 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
I normally use clean engine oil when they don't specify otherwise. Antiseize may be ok as well. Just don't use ATF. The ~220Nm torque isn't as bad as it sounds, I wouldn't worry about it. Doing the final +90 turn on head bolts or crank pulley bolts is far worse....!

I guess to start I may have to get a bigger torque wrench as mine's limit is 200 and I'd rather hit something in the middle of the range. Maybe this is a stupid question, but is there something you can use with an impact wrench that limits the torque like a torque wrench. Something like that would make life 10X easier when it comes to the 12 inner axles nuts from a standpoint of not turning the axles... though I guess they'll be pretty easy when I get everything attached and put the parking brake on + a jack under a lug nut.
One new question ... I noticed one of the rear differential mounts is ever so slightly twisted clockwise (just the inside portion of it, that is), and it concerns me. When I loosen the bolt, it pops back to straight, but every time I torque it down, it twists. In the FSM I see there's a bracket-like tool used when putting the bolts in ... should I try to find one or is there a clever way to keep the inner part of the bushing from turning? It's only about 3 degrees off so it's not a panic but I'm guessing if left like that it will wear prematurely, and I'd rather avoid that.
Progress-wise I rolled the frame back under the car and it's ready to go up (tomorrow, because I'm working until 12:30 tonight). So getting close. I think I'm going to skip the tank strainer for now and just suffer through it later (since I know it can be done with subframe et al in place). I'd rather do it as a separate project in the spring/summer, and focus on getting this one done and done right.
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